Methinks that title sounds like the name of a pop group… purely coincidental of course. In this case Barbuda is the name of a wonderful unspoilt Caribbean island, whilst the Frigates - birds of course - are the main reason for coming here, apart from the miles of pinky white sand beaches, tourqoise sea, wild donkeys and .... NO HIGH RISE HOTELS OR TOURIST DEVELOPMENTS! In short it is nothing short of a tropical paradise.
On the passage here from Falmouth, the Magic Zero sail emerged from its locker for the first time since our Atlantic crossing a year ago.
Light south-easterly winds provided perfect conditions for flying it. However, a later start than ideal after having to pick up water before setting off, plus the slower-than-expected progress along the south coast of Antigua and then up the west coast meant that it was midday before we even arrived at the north end of Antigua. And there was still about 30nm of open water to cover before getting anywhere near a suitable anchorage off Barbuda. Taking all the advice to stay away from Barbuda at night, since it is surrounded by dangerous reefs, we dropped anchor in Deep Bay near the north end of Antigua and enjoyed a lazy afternoon swimming and reading. Just before sunset, Skipper set up the wind generator in the hope that some charging could be had if the wind came up. And of course, being the 25th January, we toasted the Immortal Memory with a wee dram or two. Regret no haggis to be had anywhere around here.
Next morning, the wind had backed but was still light so we continued our passage north towards Barbuda with conventional rig of mainsail and jib - but it was quite slow! Shortly before arriving there, and while still safely outside the reefs, we caught not one but two fish:
Spanish Mackerel - about 3lb
Kingfish - 5-6lb
Regrettably we discovered afterwards that Kingfish this large and in this latitude are liable to be infected with Ciguatera, so that beautiful fish was thrown back. Large Spanish Mackerel (over 4lb) can also be infected but we took a chance on this small one and - fingers crossed - no symptoms so far.
By happy chance we found ourselves anchored next to the same charter boat we had been next to the previous evening. The three crew, from Yorkshire, were also wanting to take the tour to the famous frigate bird colony on this island. We teamed up and managed to engage George Graham who is the premier guide here.
He whizzed us across the inland lagoon, separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land and took us right in amongst the mangroves which provide the nesting site for thousands upon thousands of frigate birds. Well, the sight of this massive colony just took our breath away - and we were only on one side of it.
"We enjoy the neighbourliness..."
These photos cannot adequately show what this massive colony was like with huge numbers of birds wheeling overhead and filling the sky, jockeying for position whilst waiting to swoop in and find their nestlings. Their GPS is second to none!
George told us that the colony stretched back by half a mile and was over a mile wide, and is likely the biggest in the world. He also showed us the upside-down jelly fish that inhabit the lagoon.
After the two-hour tour, George took us over to Codrington on the far side of the lagoon - the only ‘town’ on Barbuda. It is named after the family who leased it from England beginning in 1685 in exchange for one fat sheep p.a. Shops are few and far between.
Returning us to the coastal side of the lagoon, where we had left our dinghies near the Barbuda Outbar
it was (unexpectedly) open so beer and barbecued lobster with our new-found Yorkshire friends could not be resisted. Regret I didn't get a photo with Ruth in it but David and Martin are shown below.
A great way to end a fabulous tour.
The view out to sea from here sums it up - Follyfin centre stage. Now you know why I called it a tropical paradise.
