Oysters and Bastille celebrations

Although hot weather and fair winds were set for several days, the need to re-victual necessitated our departure from the islands. There was still time to fit in a visit to one more new location: Penerf, otherwise known (by us) as the Crustacean Capital of Brittany. Situated about 2 miles up a river with drying mudflats on both sides, this area is ideal for the cultivation of oysters. Here it's possible to purchase a plate of six no. 3's (the tastiest and most popular size we are reliably informed), a glass of Muscadet, bread and butter for only 6€ - and all consumed whilst sitting at a makeshift table overlooking the river.

Before, and after, with Follyfin in the background.

Fortunately tourism has not caught up with this wonderful place yet: there are only two visitor's moorings and Follyfin was only the 4th British boat to visit this season; a total of 11 visited last season. Needless to say we also took advantage of the plentiful supply of other Crustacea on offer.

The locals never miss an opportunity to catch sardines from the slipway as the tide comes in,

Hollyhocks were quite splendid too.

Then it was time to turn into the Vilaine river again, since we knew that the Bastille Day celebrations would not only make all marinas very crowded and expensive but also they signal the start of the official French holiday season. Besides, the Vilaine river is so tranquil, and we don't like crowds.

Not normally that is, but Bastille Day is special and here at Rieux (where we have been before - see earlier post "Summer has arrived"), they celebrate it in style, last night in fact; two days early but Friday night ... well, all kinds of people turned up and lots of them, there were helpings of moules (mussels) frites all round, chichis (appeared to be dough extruded from machine into sausage shape, cut off in ~10cm lengths, deep fried then rolled in sugar or nutella ... popular with the kids) and a very well stocked bar. At 21:30 a five-piece band struck up playing chants de marins (sea shanties Breton style) and some energetic communal dancing ensued.

Breton dancing ( click here to watch a short clip ) is something like Scottish dancing, very bouncy but without the reels. Some of the steps are quite intricate and difficult to follow but others were simple enough for the crew of Follyfin to join in. At 23:00 prompt the place went dark and everyone turned to look across the river to the opposite bank where we were treated to one of the most magnificent firework displays I have ever seen, lasting fully 20 minutes. [Note to self: ensure presence in France for Bastille Celebrations whenever possible!]

On Monday Follyfin will be lifted out of the water at Arzal and we fly back from Nantes to Manchester on Thursday. We are looking forward to returning home for a few weeks, letting the intense heat abate and the holiday crowds disperse before sailing on south from here in September. Just hoping that summer will continue for us in Yorkshire.

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Summer has arrived!

The Vilaine river has certainly lived up to expectations. Beautiful scenery and wonderful weather!

All very tranquil, and no tidal gates, changing depths or weather forecast to worry about. One is able to drop the anchor almost anywhere as long as one is clear of the channel. It is very reminiscent of earlier narrow boat holidays on English canals. So far we have had 3 nights at anchor and 3 berthed on a pontoon handily positioned next to a very small and friendly camp site where full facilities are provided. However, true to form, there have been a couple of engineering problems to sort out: a leaking exhaust pipe

and a broken drive pin on the bow thruster - probably sheared when a foreign body strayed too near the propeller just prior to entering the huge lock that protects the entrance to this river from the sea. The Engineer had to summon up all his courage to check the propeller was still in tact ... unfortunately it's not visible unless the whole boat is lifted out of the water. Lucky it was a very hot day!

The new drive pin for the bow thruster was ordered yesterday. We are now enjoying a few more days relaxing in this gorgeous weather on the river whilst waiting for it to arrive. Oh it's a hard life!

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