Staging up to Maine

Whilst sitting out the heavy rain and high winds in Hadley Harbour where we very comfortably tucked up inside Follyfin along with a few other boats,

it became clear that the weather was not going to improve in the next day or two. What’s more, the timing of the favourable tide for our passage through the Cape Cod Canal was approximately one hour later every day we delayed. So a plan developed: with the help of Toby, the OCC Port Officer for Buzzards Bay (who saw our Flying Fish burgee whilst in Hadley Harbour - a happy chance), we knew that we could ‘stage’ much nearer to the entrance to the Canal. By braving the wind and waves in the Bay outside and heading NE whilst hugging the eastern shore, a mere 10nm or so sailing would allow us to enter Wings Neck (aka Pokasset Harbour) and pick up a free mooring for the night. Here we would be poised for a not-too-early start (05:30 instead of 03:30) to catch the end of the flood tide through the Canal.

And so it was early on Friday morning the mooring was slipped and we were on our way into the Cape Cod Canal, our speed over the ground accelerated by 3-4kn, the maximum experienced was 9.8kn! Emerging at the north end of the Canal just over an hour later, the sun was shining with a light south-westerly wind for our passage northwards up the Massachusetts coast. Perfect conditions for our passage up to Rockport, on the tip of Cape Ann. This passage was made even more rewarding a large mackerel obligingly accepting the lure onto our hook. Fresh fish for supper again!

After a quiet night at anchor off the beach, Saturday morning saw a more civilised 8a.m. start. Again headed north, the wind was livelier but still behind us, allowing most of the passage to be made under full sail. However by 2p.m. the gusts were over 20kn and subsequently went up to 30kn (Force 7 near gale) so sail was quickly reduced by two reefs. And by the time we anchored in Wood Island Harbour, near Biddeford, the weather had changed completely: high wind, grey overcast sky with rain in the air. But at last we had reached the state of Maine, our intended cruising ground for this season. 

Just as an aside, it is remarkable how many ports and towns along this coast have been named after an English counterpart: Plymouth, Portsmouth, Weymouth, York, Portland, Yarmouth, Bath, Gloucester, Essex, Falmouth, Newport, the list goes on. Evidence perhaps of how much the early settlers missed their home towns.

Yesterday, Sunday 16 June, we pressed on north east, across the Biggelow Bight, across Casco Bay and then in towards the Midcoast of Maine, and into the mouth of the Sheepscot River, sailing downwind all the while in the rain and then the fog ... and by Jove was it cold and wet! Still, we duly arrived at the very sheltered and quaintly named working harbour of Five Islands (because of course, logically, it is surrounded by five small wooded islands and the mainland) and it was all worthwhile because Follyfin spent the night on a free mooring kindly provided by the Five Islands Yacht Club.

Awaking to a clear sky and bright sunshine, today is a very different kettle of fish weather-wise. Five Islands is a lovely spot.

So, it was time to stretch our legs and get in some more tasty morsels for the crew. Walking up the hill to the only food store within walking distance, we saw the sign:

Thoughts immediately turned to a delicious evening meal of fresh asparagus, some new potatoes, a plate of New England oysters, perhaps a lobster from one of the many lobster boats that live in this harbour, some tasty cheese to finish, all washed down with a nice glass or two of Californian white. Imagine our disappointment when turning the corner we saw that the lovely little shop is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays! Guess it will be corned beef tonight instead....

Consoling ourselves with a walk along the road parallel to the shore, we found a nice little beach with a good view of the harbour; Follyfin looked rather unusual, centre stage amongst the other local vessels.

It’s been a good restful day though, a nice change from passage-making. Tomorrow we definitely need to go in search of water (none available to visitors in Five Islands) and provisions - corned beef two nights running is not an option! 

Not just the sailing capital of the world, and...

A fish! Yes, we finally caught one yesterday, Wednesday 12 June, on passage from Newport, Rhode Island to Hadley Harbour where we are now sitting out yet another band of rain and high winds. It was a beautiful Bluefish (aka Snapper) weighing in at about 3.5lb:

and it made tasty eating with plenty for another meal too...Skipper didn’t find it as flavourful as First Mate though.

Newport, Rhode Island (RI) claims to be the sailing capital of the world. It is indeed home to some of the most beautiful classic yachts we have ever seen. We were last here just over a year ago to witness the start of Leg 9 of the Volvo Ocean Race (see blog post ‘Racing Boats of the Giant Variety’ published 23 May, 2018) but IMHO, those modern boats are built only for speed, not beauty and elegance. But as I was saying, whilst ashore exploring Newport, we came across another claim for Newport being an even more (?) sacred place, i.e. where the US Open Tennis tournament all began a long time ago, before it became so big and had to move to Forest Hills. As tennis is second only to sailing in my list of active sports, this blogger just had to have a photo...of the famous court too. Reminiscent of Wimbledon Centre Court about 60 years ago?

There was also time for us to complete a large portion of the famous Cliff Walk, along the SE corner of RI. From here glimpses can be caught of the many large mansions which were built by wealthy Americans during the boom years of the early-mid 1800s. One could be forgiven for thinking oneself in the Loire valley in France when viewing some of them. Over the succeeding couple of centuries many fell into disrepair, were renovated or remodelled and sold on several times, some into public ownership and a few to form the Salve Regina University. Some of course are still in private ownership, though the mind boggles at the cost of upkeep - modern mogul millionaires required!

Well, having popped out from Newport yesterday morning in full sunshine and light winds, we motor-sailed north-east into Buzzards Bay on the way to the Cape Cod Canal. The weather forecast for the next two days (today Thursday and Friday) was not encouraging so we opted to stop in this wonderful sheltered little harbour on the east side of the bay in the Elizabeth Islands. The entrance is a little tricky but once inside there are several free moorings, so no worries about anchor dragging in the forecast high winds. The Bosun also had a time-consuming job to perform on the rig and First Mate wanted a swim - the first of the season - so this was the ideal place. And now we are hunkered down, waiting for the gale to pass. Hoping to go through the Canal tomorrow, Friday, weather permitting. The only downside to this place is that the mobile signal is very weak and the Community WiFi (kindly provided by local home owners) is also too weak for me to publish this post at the moment. So will just have to wait until we find a stronger WiFi somewhere else. 

On passage headed East

Follyfin has at last had wind in her sails. We said au revoir to Lee and Deborah on Friday - sad to part but happy to be sailing again. There’s a lovely high pressure weather system over here at the moment meaning sunshine, gentle breezes and calm seas. Ideal for our first passage of 37nm to Duck Island anchorage. A pretty passenger helped to crew for us...

Sundowners on arrival were accompanied appropriately by a magnificent sunset

Yesterday (Saturday) a dawn start was required since the huge body of water that is Long Island Sound sets up strong currents and races on the ebb. Follyfin obviously prefers to go with the current rather than against, especially as an extra couple of knots over the ground eats up the distance faster. Whilst sailing on a broad reach - a very comfortable point of sail for Follyfin - the cry went up from the Skipper: “is it a fish?” First Mate was doubtful...

Indeed, the ‘catch’ proved a disappointment...

Never mind! We arrived at beautiful Fishers Island in excellent time for breakfast - not fresh fish alas but wholesome porridge instead. After a nap, the dinghy was commissioned and we went ashore to explore. A very quiet island is Fishers, the site of many multi-million dollar summer homes, most of which looked unoccupied at this time of year. It is definitely a holiday Island. You can just spot Follyfin in the photo below, happily moored to a free mooring buoy, the blue-hulled sailing yacht second from the left.

Today, Sunday, another dawn start was in order to cross out of Long Island Sound and into Block Island Sound, which is where we are now anchored in Great Salt Pond - a huge body of water enclosed on three sides by land. This island is a small speck of land, a U-shaped island midway between the E end of Long Island and Martha’s Vineyard. Many more facilities for holidaymakers here, unlike Fishers, as well as free WiFi outside the Library from where I will upload this post. But again, a definite holiday feel to this place. Nice - our proper holiday has begun!

Launched - at last!

In the water...finally. We’ll be away before the weekend 😀

Landlubbers still

Well, the longed-for launch was not to be. Although the cleaning and polishing of the hull

would have been ready by Friday, a fibreglass repair had to wait because it rained in the early part of last week. Memorial Day weekend, a full bank holiday, has just passed, causing further delay to the repair. The good news is that the weather now feels more like summer  (temperatures of 26-29°C have recently been experienced), so all repairs and preparations should be ready for launch in the early part of next week now, weather permitting.

Preparations completed since my last post include: - full polish of hull, see below before and after, see that reflection...

 - full service to main and fore sails- all gas tanks refilled, 

- anemometer replaced atop the mast,  - life raft, wind steering and power-generating equipment replaced in position on stern, - some provisioning for Follyfin’s eventual departure.

Though it might seem that it’s all work and no play for us Follyfinners (and sometimes I do feel that way), there have been a few welcome diversions - mostly facilitated by our hosts Lee and Deborah. First came Mothers’ Day US style on Sunday 12 May; a most convivial event despite constant rain outside. Attendees’ ages ranged from 93 (Caroline - Deborah’s mother) down to 1 (Amelia, our youngest grandchild).  

 

So you see, our own family was also invited! The following weekend we spent in Jersey City with our family, and this was reported in the previous post to this one. Since then there have been two excursions out on the water, not on Follyfin of course, which is still on the land. Mid-last week, Cap’n Lee was delivering a power boat a few miles down the coast and invited us to take a ride with him. Skipper was too busy but I accepted ... cruising at 20kn is very different from our usual 5kn - and much bumpier and noisier. I was even entrusted with the helm for a while, 

 an exhilarating but slightly scary experience. Don’t think I will be going over to the dark side just yet...

On Memorial Day Monday, a couple of days ago, Cap’n Lee was helping the owner of an almost-brand-new sail boat and his wife to take it out into the Sound for an afternoon sail. They kindly invited us to join them.

The conditions were perfect - F3-4 wind, sunshine and calm sea. It was so good to be out on the water under sail again. Roll on launch day for Follyfin! Memorial Day was beautifully rounded off with a delicious BBQ (photo). Our hosts had invited some friends over and we, the lucky house guests, were included. For a few hours we were able to pretend we were on holiday! Back to work now though... 

Still aground!

Now the middle of May, and Follyfin is still on land! Normally by this time of year, the good ship Follyfin is breasting the waves and her crew members have found their sea legs again after the long winter months ashore. Not so in 2019! A family wedding in UK delayed our return to the US until the end of April. Then after a short period spent in Jersey City with son Warren and his family, it was time to head east to Connecticut, back to Captain’s Cove Seaport in Black Rock on the north shore of Long Island Sound.

There we found Follyfin, safely on land in her winter quarters but in serious need of some TLC. So here we still are, busily cleaning and polishing the whole boat - all stainless steel, topside and hull, cleaning and applying antifoul to the bottom of the boat, overhauling/servicing the engine, re-rigging, etc. etc. etc. A lot of work needed to prepare the boat for the season and looking her best. Actually we were not in any hurry to launch Follyfin because since the beginning of May, the weather has been like winter!

On the bright side, instead of being out on the water in the cold, wet and windy conditions, the Skipper and I have been experiencing the wonderful New England hospitality of our sailing friends Lee and Deborah. Although we met them only last year in Maine, they have welcomed us into their home as if we are family. It’s not everyone who would offer the use of their house and all its comforts, for 3-4 weeks, to a couple of somewhat eccentric Brits whom they have known for less than a year. Luckily for us, they took the chance...and it turns out that they are only slightly less eccentric then we are.

Lee, being a very experienced sailor as well as an official US ‘Captain’ (a title that is hard earned), is a mine of nautical information and tips, with a veritable plethora of contacts in the area, so of course very helpful to us. And when not involved with matters marine, he is an accomplished musician and jazz guitarist, who delights the household with occasional spontaneous ‘jam’ sessions. Deborah is a recently retired executive from the corporate world of high fashion and is revelling in her newfound freedom ... although training for a half-marathon may not be everyone’s idea of enjoyment! She makes her house so welcoming and peaceful for us workers - a true oasis of calm after each day’s toil on the boat. So we are indeed extremely fortunate - and eternally grateful - to have such wonderful friends.

The other unexpected bonus from this delayed start to our sailing season is that we are only a couple of hours by train from son Warren, Lara and their three children Noah (5), Bella (3) and Amelia (1) (see above). Indeed, this weekend we travelled over to Jersey City to see them all. Beautiful weather on Saturday enabled a trip to Hoboken to their friends and a walk back  along the Hudson River. 

It was also fortunate that on Sunday we were in the audience to witness the ballet debut of young Isabella (aged 4) on the big stage. From the balcony of a packed auditorium, our binoculars ensured that not a moment of the 4 minutes that Bella was on stage near the end of the full 2¹/₂ hr performance was missed. She was of course brilliant.

Weather is now improving. Today the highest temperature was 27°C. So hopefully, all being well Follyfin will be launched next week. Fingers crossed!

Season end - hellos and goodbyes

No doubt, dear Readers, you have been waiting with bated breath (?) for the next instalment in the Follyfin Saga... apologies for long delay. Skipper and I have been a bit busy over the past 3 weeks, first busily engaged in putting FF to bed for the winter, then welcoming our latest grandchild, Celeste, into the world. 

Her timing was perfect, arriving last Saturday evening a few days after we arrived back in UK and only a couple of days earlier than expected. She weighed in at 9lb 5oz, and mother and baby are both doing well. Of course we are all delighted!

Winterising Follyfin was made significantly easier by the wonderful helpers we had. First there was Ivor, who helped get the sails off on his last day with us. Then there were our new friends Lee and Deborah - met only recently in Maine at the OCC Rally (see previous post) -  who invited us to stay in their house a short drive away from Captain’s Cove Seaport, Blackrock, near Bridgeport in Connecticut. This is where we have decided to store Follyfin over winter. It is not an extremely smart or modern Marina but the facilities and expertise amongst the staff are excellent. This is not the word we would use to describe the company who we used to service our life raft. It shall remain nameless for the present; suffice to say that from here it has been returned to them for a third time (the first two times from Boston whilst we were temporarily berthed there earlier this summer) because of substandard service and treatment of this essential and expensive item. The photo below shows the mark up done by Skipper prior to its collection from Captain’s Cove.

Lifts to chandlers and US Customs and Border Agencies, a nice comfortable bed, hot showers, washing machine, flush toilet and above all their company, help and advice made the daily toil of denuding, clearing and prepping Follyfin for the winter so much more pleasant. We were all rewarded with a visit to Brewport - home to a local craft brewery - on Ivor’s last night. Flights of beer and pizza: what more could a chap need to speed him on his travels?

Anyway, back to the winterising process... Skipper (Bosun/Engineer), having serviced the engine and dosed the engine, shower and head pipes with antifreeze (amongst numerous other winterising tasks) pronounced Follyfin ready for hauling out onto dry land (aka ‘the hard’ in nauticospeak). This was duly done first thing on Thursday 20 September. We were a little anxious during this process since the haul-out bay was barely wider than Follyfin herself. But like the secret passenger who fell out of the keel area once out of the water, we need not have worried. That evening we all celebrated by taking a Clam Crawl (raw ‘on the half shell’, steamed and fried) with our friends in two very different establishments.

By Friday evening the work was finished and we said goodbye to Follyfin until the Spring. The next morning we also bade a fond farewell to Lee and Deborah as we boarded the train to Grand Central Station in New York City. So this is the other silver lining about Hurricane Florence messing up our original plan to winter Follyfin further south: she and we are only a couple of hours by train from Warren and family in Jersey City. So we spent the rest of the weekend with them before catching our train down to Baltimore to fly home overnight on Monday 24th. Happy times with our JC grandchildren!

So, dear Readers, that’s all from Follyfin and her crew for this season. We plan to rejoin her in April 2019. Seems a very long time since we were planning to cross the Atlantic east to west; almost 3 years to be exact (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJWMdmZTqf8 ) for an amusing cinematic reminder!). Will 2019 be the year to cross back in the opposite direction? Who knows...watch this space!