Sailing ‘Down East’ in Maine

‘Down East’ is the term used for the portion of Maine coastline beyond Schoodic Point to the Canadian border. In this area, lobstering and fishing are the primary industries, cruising yachts are rare and facilities for them are almost non-existent. No more smart marinas and restaurants: you are on your own out here! But the fabled uninhabited white granite and spruce islands together with reported abundant wildlife - seals, whales, bald eagles, ospreys to name a few - are a great attraction to us. Follyfin failed to make it this far in 2018, so her crew was determined to make it this year, 2019. First we had to get there...

Monday 19 August: Woke in Camden harbour to find thick fog which lasted all morning. Motored in company with 3 other OCC boats to Pulpit Harbour on Vinalhaven Island where we picked up a vacant mooring, courtesy of Bob’s local knowledge. This came in handy again as we walked a mile and a half to buy oysters at a small shack a little distance inland; $1 apiece and delicious. Pot luck supper was shared aboard Lee and Deborah’s beautiful 57 foot yacht North Star V, with Bob (see above) and Patty (Imagine) and Ruth and Herb (The Ancient Mariners). Many glasses of wine (vodka for some), delicious appetisers and a very tasty supper later, we all marvelled at the beautiful sunset - possibly the most beautiful one we have ever seen. Though I didn’t have my camera with me, Deborah did...

Sunset over the Camden hills (thanks Deb)

Shucked and emptied oyster shells

Tuesday 20 August: Dawned sunny and bright. Early start for the two hour motor to Hurricane Island, hailing a lobster boat on the way to purchase two choice lobsters for $5 apiece - that’s supper sorted. We were due to rendezvous on the island with the OCC ‘mini’ cruise for a brief tour of the ‘offline, offshore, off-grid’ Hurricane island. Formerly an Outward Bound Centre, it is now ‘The Hurricane Island Center for Science and Leadership’ whose mission is to integrate science education, applied research, and leadership development through year-round educational programmes and a seasonal, environmentally-sustainable island community. Their latest initiative is a global leadership and sustainability course in environmental stewardship which 18-30 year olds can apply for from anywhere in the world. The idea is that these young people learn about how to manage environmentally sustainable communities, then take the acquired knowledge back to their own countries to spread the word there. A wonderful opportunity for any young people interested in saving the planet by becoming leaders in the next wave of environmental conservation - and where better to learn about it than on beautiful Hurricane Island in Maine? On our OCC tour we saw and heard about the defunct granite quarry, scallop research, a self-sufficient garden, and many examples of how solar power is used. To say we were impressed is an understatement. This is the sort of place that needs to be fully embraced - oh to be young again!

After two hours on the island, Follyfin was underway again, eastbound towards Frenchboro on Long Island for our overnight stop. Five hours of motor sailing later, spotting porpoises on the way, we picked up the last available mooring in the harbour of this (according to the pilot book) ‘remote, very remote’ island with about 70 islanders living in the lobstering community. Having visited here last season (remembered vividly by the first mate, having swum in the extremely cold waters), we knew that only six moorings are available for visitors, so we were lucky to settle down quickly to enjoy our lobsters and another splendid sunset.

Wednesday 21 August: early morning start at 06:50, with clear visibility and blue sky - but chilly. Eastbound again, outside all the islands, motor sailing was the order of the morning in a variable wind. In and out of fog banks, the passage was enlivened by the sighting of several triangular fins along the way. Skipper thinks they belonged to sunfish but First Mate thinks more likely to pilot whales or orca (killer) whales. The jury is still out on this... more research required. Harbour porpoises were also spotted frequently as they swam around Follyfin. Soon after 13:00, the wind filled in to a steady force 3/4 and backed to the south. This meant we were able to deploy our colourful Magic Zero sail (photo seen at top of this blog). Being very light and very large, it harnesses a great deal of wind, thus effectively pulling the boat along faster than with our usual rig of 50% jib sail and mainsail. So we were flying along in the sun without engine at a steady 6 - 6.5 kn (maximum speed achieved 7.3 kn). Those moments are why we like sailing!

Soon our course turned north towards The Thorofare - a narrow, winding, hidden passage from Chandler Bay to Roque Island Harbour and our ultimate destination: the Great Beach. Arriving there shortly after 16:00, our anchor dropped in time for a cup of tea and time to marvel at the place in which we find ourselves. Such a tranquil, unspoiled and peaceful spot; the water was calm providing us with a very quiet night. Five other cruising boats are also anchored off the magnificent mile-long white sand beach but all but one have departed as I write this the following day (Thursday), leaving us alone. Even though it was overcast, one sensed that this is a special place. The only signs of civilisation on this sweeping arc of white sand are occasional notices above the beach stating that the island is private and not to stray beyond the beach. This really is a very unique place; long may it remain so.

Wildlife spotted included terns, seals, cormorants and one great northern diver.

Thursday 22 August: Loving this place so much we decided to stay another night. By the time we returned from our walk along the beach, all the other boats had weighed their anchors and Follyfin was alone once more. Whilst on the beach, we met Gretchen Gardner who happened to be on a week’s holiday, staying with her family on the island. She is one of 95 co-owners of the Island, all descendants of John Peabody who bought it originally a couple of centuries ago. These 95 people do not live on the island; they are effectively shareholders, ensuring that the island economy runs smoothly is self-sufficient  and supports its resident population of about 40 people with a working farm and small industry. The sea looked so inviting, the sun was shining so First Mate just had to have a dip but it was literally a dip, in and straight out. The water was so so cold.

Friday 23 August: With provisions running low, the reluctant decision was made to weigh anchor this morning but not before we had dinghied ashore again for another walk to the north end of the beach. Such a pleasure to walk on fine white sand in bare feet completely unplugged and unencumbered with bags or anything at all. Here we were, only 25nm sailing north east to the Canadian border, only 65nm sailing due east to Nova Scotia ... can hardly believe how far we have sailed in trusty Follyfin. Time to turn back west, first to the working lobster and fishing harbour of Jonesport, about 5nm away.

OCC Rally - encore une fois

Slipped the lines from Maine Yacht Center at 07:00, a little later than planned but pretty good considering the jet lag and physical effort required to recommission Follyfin for sailing. Twelve hours of motor-sailing later, with fog descending towards the end of the passage, we dropped the ‘hook’ in calm, peaceful and sheltered Long Cove next to Tenants Harbour. Having anchored here twice last season we knew there would be good holding in mud, so we slept easy on Friday night. And boy - did we need it! Despite a leisurely start the following morning, Saturday 17 August, the fog (an unavoidable occurrence on the Maine coast at this time of year) had not lifted as we ghosted up the Muscle Ridge Channel, motor-sailing and keeping a sharp lookout for the red and green channel markers in this beautiful stretch of water winding between many small islands, especially important in the restricted visibility. Luckily the fog lifted towards the end of the short passage to Camden.

Follyfin needed to have her diesel tank filled, and last year the cheapest fuel we found was in Camden, our destination for this year’s OCC Rally. So, on arrival at Camden, a beeline was made immediately to the fuel dock. And lo! Wonder of wonders: the price per gallon is now actually lower by 30 cents than it was last year. Rarely does price reduction happen for anything, let alone fuel. You can imagine we were two happy sailors later that afternoon when we picked up the mooring which has been kindly lent to us by a Camden Yacht Club member who is away at the moment, and arranged through a fellow OCC member.

Saturday night saw us meeting up with our old friends Lee and Deborah, and the Ancient Mariners Ruth and Herb, referred to in a previous post, and Moira and Dick, the organisers of the Rally. We were all entertained to a fantastic lobster dinner at the home of Pat and Bob who live here in Camden. What a treat that was - two lobsters per head!

Today, Sunday, was spent at the Yacht Club in the company of 133 other OCC members, chatting with people we have met previously and making new acquaintances. There was a talk by a fellow member recounting some of his adventures as a ship’s doctor followed by (too much) good food whilst exchanging salty dog stories with like-minded people. Returning to our boat this evening, the scene was classic Maine: beautiful boats on glassy water in a sheltered bay protect d by pone-clad islands. Lovely!

Tomorrow we plan to join a few other OCC boats for a couple of days, sailing to beauty spots in Penobscot Bay and meeting up in the evenings. Then our plan is to sail further east, further than we managed last season, weather permitting.

Return of ‘her’ faithful crew

After a marathon 25 hour journey on Tuesday (13th August) back to Portland, we found Follyfin looking desperate to get back in the water. Yesterday, Wednesday was spent prepping her for launch, i.e. reinstating all the things we spent so long putting away before we left her for the last 7 weeks on land! An extensive shopping trip to the nearby excellent Whole Foods Market was also necessary to re-provision the boat, and of course the all important US cell phone and iPad SIM had to be re-invigorated with yet more US dollars. One just can’t do without these things these days.

The process of launching the yacht is shown below in a series of pictures:

The transporter arrives

A delicate manoeuvre to position it under the hull

Poised before the launching dock

The travel lift approaches

Prepping the hoisting straps

Skipper anxiously looks on as lifting process begins

Taking the strain...

Lifting...

Almost there...

And she’s airborne!

Slow but steady progress towards the water

Almost there

And she’s launched!

Safely moored alongside the dock

Having spent the entire day preparing for launch and then, once launched, preparing for the ‘off’ tomorrow, Friday, it’s now time for some much needed shuteye as jet lag and fatigue combine into sheer exhaustion. We leave at 6 bells heading east-north-east, aiming to get to Camden for the Ocean Cruising Club Rally by Saturday evening. Fingers crossed!

He’s still got it!

Skipper, at 75, climbed the mast several times today, Monday 24 June 2019. Seen climbing aloft here,

replacing worn out spreader boots. It’s amazing what the sun and the sea can do to plastic.

New one on left; cracked and decaying one on right 

Whilst I was controlling the safety rope from down below, I had time to admire our surroundings, and this magnificent sailing vessel hove into view.

Thank goodness there are still people who prefer the beauty of sail...and can put up with the hard work that goes with it. All worthwhile when one can travel on or see a vessel such as this one.

Leaving Potts Harbour yesterday evening after a marvellous 3 days and 3 nights staying with our dear friend Midge (see previous post), Follyfin pointed SW to the tranquillity of Jewell Island. From here there is only one house in sight and the eye is treated to the occasional glorious sight of a classic,yacht passing by under full sail - see above.

Just three other boats were here at anchor overnight, it is a wonderful example of the peaceful uncrowned anchorages that can be found in Casco Bay so near to the big city of Portland. This type of place is definitely our preference over crowded and noisy marinas (though it should be pointed out that not all marinas are tarred with this brush). Indeed, as I complete this post, we are berthed alongside a long pontoon in Maine Yacht Center, poised to be hauled out of the water tomorrow morning, 27 June, as we head home to UK for 7 weeks for various family celebrations.

Great Friends - in every sense

With friends, we have been so lucky: new ones, known for less than a year, who treated us as family whilst living in their house for so much longer than expected, and old ones, known for 40 years, who welcome us whenever we are in a position to visit. The former, of course, were Lee and Deborah in Fairfield to whom previous recent posts refer. The latter is Midge, the Maine Midge, whom we first met on a Himalayan trek with her late husband Vic 40 years ago and have visited back and forth over the years since that first meeting in Heathrow Airport on our way to Nepal.  Our ages too are widely disparate, being 15 years older than the former, and 15 years younger than the latter. So it is clear that neither age nor duration of friendship is of consequence when values, attitudes, likes and dislikes are shared. The trick is to have the luck to meet such people in the first place, and then to form a mutual bond...

Visiting Midge in Maine again this year has been great. Arriving last Thursday afternoon (20 June), we stayed 3 days with her having left Follyfin on a mooring buoy at the Dolphin Marina in Potts Harbout, Harpswell. Her home is filled with photographs - Vic was a talented photographer - and mementos of past travels, notably the Himalayan trip. So it was delightful to be able to reminisce over our shared experience.

I particularly liked seeing again the two large photograph albums which Vic and Midge diligently put together with diary notes and captions after the trek - something we have yet (if ever?) to do.

Apart from long chats and lots of laughs, we enjoyed excellent beer and pizza in Bath, an outdoor concert from the Bath Municipal Band (Midge’s daughter Linda plays the flute),

a rainy day picnic at Head Beach, delicious steamers (clams) at Cameron’s restaurant and the best lobster rolls at Erica’s lobster shack near where Follyfin was waiting for us on Sunday afternoon. What a lovely and memorable visit it was, albeit sad to leave Midge again - until the next time.

Best of friends

Garden Heaven

It is a little known fact that you can visit the beautiful Coastal Maine Botanic Gardens (CMBG) by boat. And we did, just a few days ago.

This is the front entrance by which most people enter. We, however, came up through the woods from the river. This is the value of being ‘in the know’ via a couple of nautical fora (well, I did study Latin at school you know...) and the internet. Walking up from the dock through the hillside garden,

one did not know quite what to expect. Gradually, the wonder of this place revealed itself. There was the Meditation Garden with granite benches strategically placed,

the wonderful Rhododendron Garden in full bloom,

occasional waterfalls,

animal sculptures constructed out of weathered steel blending perfectly with the plants around them,

and the gorgeous Garden of the Five Senses. After 3 hours walking around, with a short break for lunch in between, another granite bench was much appreciated.

We were also lucky enough to arrive during the first week that the butterfly house was open. A moth (whose name escapes me) obligingly landed on the Skipper’s jumper to have its portrait taken:

I hope, dear reader, that you will agree with me that the CMBG is a ‘must’ for anyone visiting Maine!

 

Lobsters, lobsters - great and small

Just across the Sheepscot river from Five Islands is Ebenecook Harbour, off which there are three small Coves: Maddock, Pierce and Love. Avid readers of this blog will of course remember that Follyfin visited Love Cove in July 2018. Her crew found it so beautiful and tranquil, with swimming, mussels (though red tide prevented human consumption last year and this), lobsters and wildlife, that we determined to revisit the place. So on Tuesday 18 June, we motored the 2.5nm north east, bent first on replenishing our water supply. Hodgdon Yacht Services in Maddock Cove is perfectly situated for both water, fuel if needed (we didn’t) and pump out (we did). Then, in Love Cove again, we found the guest mooring - kindly provided by Eliot Winslow -available where we were not so lucky last year. Follyfin was happily tethered to the mooring ball and we duly left our note of thanks in the pickle jar provided. A half mile walk ashore to the Southport General Store in search of fresh provisions yielded delicious made-to-order sandwiches but little in the way of food (it does have an excellent selection of wines though). The substantial sandwiches meant that a cheese and onion omelette and (the inevitable) baked beans sufficed for supper. Corned beef avoided again thank goodness. Although the Skipper does like it but without potatoes, of which we have none, the galley slave declined to ‘cook’ it. So there!

Back to lobsters... having had no luck flagging down a passing lobster boat so far, we decided to try our luck with our own portable, collapsible creel, which has been used successfully to catch lobsters, crabs and shrimps in the past. Baited with fish offcuts saved from our previous catches - by now very smelly - and positioned well away from Follyfin (or so we thought), we went to bed dreaming of lobster dinner on the morrow. Early next morning, the white float marking the creel’s position was nowhere to be seen... because the line attaching it to the creel had somehow managed to get itself wrapped around the port rudder! Freeing it eventually, we did have a catch: a baby lobster and 4 crabs, one of whom declined to be photographed.

All were returned to the sea and our dreams of lobster dinner dashed... until last night, Wednesday 19 June.

Having already decided to leave our beloved Love Cove and explore 3nm further north up the Sheepscot River, we motored off at 10a.m. just as the fog (par for the course in Maine) was lifting. The plan was to visit the Coastal Maine Botanic Garden on the mainland to the east of Hodgdon Island, which we did, utilising the single big boat mooring provided by the Garden for visitors. That visit deserves a blog post in its own right ... so magnificent was it. But suffice to say, we did get lobsters for our evening meal after all. On our way back from the Garden in the dinghy, we just called in for milk to the Trevett General Store close to our mooring but to our delight we found that fresh lobsters were for sale there at a very reasonable price. What a find! These two bruisers were 1.5lb each.

Before and after cooking on board