Shark!

Until this morning, Wednesday 11 September, our progress West back towards our winter quarters near Bridgeport, Connecticut, has been somewhat uneventful. Actually that’s not quite true, as yesterday morning at 07:20 the Skipper hooked a 2.5lb Atlantic Bonito. Filleted and grilled (thank you Lee), there was plenty to feed four for lunch - well deserved after the dawn start from Point Judith Harbour of Refuge (near Newport, Rhode Island) towards aptly named Fishers Island, where Follyfin is now tied to a mooring.

Yes, we had been slightly surprised to see cows paddling in the sea off Cuttyhunk Island, the southernmost of the Elizabeth Islands - these form the eastern border of Buzzards Bay - but otherwise just the usual spotting of various boats of different shapes and sizes.

But things were about to become a whole lot more eventful... Having decided to stay at Fishers Island overnight (the North Star Vs (aka Lee and Deborah) wanted to get home so slipped their line after lunch), the Follyfins (aka Skipper and First Mate) enjoyed tranquility, sunshine and warmth in this place for the rest of the afternoon. During this time, however, First Mate swam around the boat three times and Skipper set about baiting our collapsible creel and dropping it overboard from the dinghy, behind some nearby rocks, in the hope of catching some prawns overnight. Upon retrieval early this morning, imagine our shock to find that a Sandbar Shark, almost 4ft in length, had somehow managed to become trapped inside it! This is not the outcome we would have wished for. The creel is designed to catch lobster, crab, prawns and possibly small fish; definitely not a big shark!

Unfortunately, the poor fish was dead on our arrival. As the zoologists and the cognoscenti amongst you will know, sharks have no gills so have to keep swimming in order to breathe. This unfortunate fish found itself trapped and unable to move, so died - but not before devouring a crab and the claw of a good-sized lobster (and to think I was swimming nearby a few hours earlier!). We have been informed (thanks Will) that this species is classified as ‘declining’ on the IUCN list due to overfishing but also that it is ‘tasty’. Rest assured dear readers that this shark’s life will not have been in vain. The fridge now has three bags of shark steaks of varying sizes sitting in it. The only worry is that the demand of Follyfin’s crew will be unable to keep up with the supply.

Tropical storm, paddle boarding and Martha’s Vineyard

This post is being composed on ‘the morning after’ - not after a heavy night out celebrating I don’t know what, no, but after coming through a tropical storm whilst attached to a mooring in Oak Bluffs Harbour, on the island of Martha’s Vineyard. Quite an experience, yes, and one I would not want to experience whilst out at sea. Fortunately the weather forecasting now is so accurate, we knew what to expect. See below a screenshot taken this morning after the storm had passed us (our position shown by blue dot) showing how close Hurricane Dorian had passed (courtesy Deborah).

On Friday 6 September: we had 25-35 knot winds with up to 50kt gusts, with at least 2” heavy rainfall, as forecast. Skipper had taken many precautions over the preceding couple of days, including: attaching boat to mooring with a stainless shackle plus two extra lines, removal of all items on deck that might catch the wind, wrapping of lines around the foresail, the mainsail bonnet and the bimini cover, covering the deck-mounted navpod, and removal of all items and outboard motor from the dinghy. 

As we were finishing our supper aboard yesterday evening, we felt the boat begin to roll; at 19:30 the wind was 20-25kt, maximum gust 33.4kt. At 22:40, with the boat swerving back and forth, straining at the mooring, we prepared to retire; wind now 25-35kt, max seen 36.6kt. However, sleep was slow to come, and was at best shallow when it did - it’s hard to get comfortable when the boat is shifting about so much, side to side and up and down - reminiscent of our Atlantic crossing almost 4 years ago - and there is an intermittent graunching noise, with the occasional sudden jerk, all night long. Eventually, about 02:30, when one felt the storm had reached its peak, sleep arrived. At 06:00 the wind had turned to the north and calmer conditions prevailed; the max wind gust during the night had been 41.9kt or force 9, classified as ‘severe gale’. Thank goodness we had not been out at sea for this!

Prior to this tropical storm experience, we had enjoyed 3 days of lovely weather. On Tuesday 3 September we had sailed up Vineyard Sound from Cuttyhunk island where we had anchored overnight following our passage west through the Cape Cod canal 2 days earlier. Timing our arrival in Oak Bluffs Harbour on Martha’s Vineyard for the day after Labour Day, there were plenty of moorings available. Fortunately for us, our good friends Lee and Deborah who are also here on their yacht North Star V, know this Island very well and were able to ‘show us the ropes’. This included swimming off the beach - a girls only activity - and paddle-boarding. Deborah demonstrated how it was done and encouraged First Mate to try it.

First we used it as a kayak just to get the feel of it, then it was time to go solo. Kneeling on the board was fine but trying to stand up? 

Well, the most inelegant of postures were required in the effort ... the knees shake uncontrollably and just turn to jelly as soon as you try to stand on your feet. Take it from me: it’s not easy! The first three attempts resulted in a ducking. On the fourth attempt a standing position was achieved for a few seconds with a couple of strokes of the paddle but the end result was the same: another ducking. Never mind - at least I had managed to stand. I can imagine it would be a fun activity but... more practice required!

Once the storm had passed, everything settled down. Follyfin’s crew was treated to a tour of the island by Lee in a car kindly loaned by a friend of his. Menemshah, on SW corner of this triangular Island is lovely but the docks there were still showing evidence of the tidal surge following the storm.

Next stop was Edgartown on the SE corner of the island. From here the tiny ‘Chappy’ ferry plies the channel to Chappaquidick Island.

Apart from the notoriety associated with that name (editor’s note: quiz question for our younger readers), Edgartown itself became very wealthy on the back of the whaling industry in the 19th century - as shown by the opulent residences all over the town.

All in all, it’s a beautiful island. We leave today, Sunday 8 September, heading west back into Long Island Sound towards New York.

Cape Cod: family well met at Wellfleet

After a rather uncomfortable, marathon passage of 37 hours, the anchor was dropped at 17:25 in the outer harbour of Wellfleet during a sudden squall with heavy rain, mist and a 33kt wind. The timing could not have been worse! Retired after early supper and felt thoroughly revived by the time dawn broke on Thursday (29 August). The harbour at Wellfleet has a 10-11ft tidal range and can only be entered 2 hrs either side of high water. This we did and Follyfin was all tied up onto mooring no.1 as previously arranged with the harbourmaster. This appeared to be the only guest mooring that could accommodate a vessel our size so that was lucky. However, when we later went ashore to settle up for 2 nights on the mooring, we understood why there was no queue for it: the hugely inflated price of $55 per night with zero facilities - only a public shower that was out of order! Nevertheless, this place was ideal for our rendezvous with the family the following day - only about 30 mins drive from their rented holiday house. Another factor accounting for the scarcity of cruising yachts in Wellfleet is the range of tide: it’s over 10ft on average, and now at springs it’s more like 12ft meaning that most of the harbour is dry for a couple of hours either side of low water. Follyfin’s lifting keel takes care of that!

Wellfleet claims to have ‘the finest oysters on the Cape’. We sampled them and they were indeed excellent. Other shellfish and lobsters are available in profusion.

Another tasty comestible we came across was the bluefish pâté found in the fish market on the waterfront: excellent spread on rice crackers. Exploring the town, there were many art galleries and souvenirs shops; it’s a typical seaside town, a delightful destination for the summer holidays. But like all places on the Cape, beware of very inflated prices.

Friday 30 August was the date set for our rendezvous with the family. Our scheduled early morning pick-up by son Warren had to be delayed by an hour because we could not get ashore owing to the aforementioned drying of the harbour. However, once accomplished, a fun family day was has by all as attested by the photos below. Lara’s parents, Diane and Paul, were holidaying with them - a rare opportunity for both sets of grandparents to be with the family for a whole day simultaneously. After two visits to the beach, breakfast, lunch and dinner all together, we were safely delivered back to Follyfin later that night after spending a fun day with them all - so fortunate that we were able to arrange such a meeting as they are heading back to Jersey City tomorrow.

Beagle burying Bella

Bella buried

Outdoor dining at holiday house, Brewster, Cape Cod

BBQ King at work

Two grandads and a dad

Lunch, holiday style

Amelia - looking well after her recent brush with hospital emergency services

Outdoor shower - fun for Noah and Bella

The following morning there was time for us to pop ashore again for a brief period before leaving the inner harbour just after high water. Anchoring again in the outer harbour, we enjoyed a blissfully peaceful afternoon and evening in the warm sunshine, planning our next move.

Heading West again: Pleasant Bay and North East Harbour

Having read that bald eagles frequent Pleasant Bay, which would be a one-day deviation from our planned passage west, and knowing that there is an OCC mooring available in Ports Harbour almost at the head of Pleasant Bay, we made this very pleasant detour to see if we could find both the birds and the mooring. Definitely there would be no eagles further west, and the crew was desirous of having the opportunity to see these magnificent birds if possible.

Four hours after weighing anchor at Mistake Island on 24 August, Follyfin was settled on the ‘John White’ OCC mooring, located all on its own in the perfect little cove that is Ports Harbour. We were told later by the kind owners of the mooring and of John White Island that Follyfin was only the second OCC boat to use the mooring this season, and the first sailing vessel. This was all too apparent from the amount of weed on the buoy’s line and some very strange little creatures living on it. They are reminiscent of stick insects but these are aquatic ones!

After lunch we embarked in the dinghy to explore further into the harbour. As we set off, the aforementioned owners of the mooring appeared on their float and we made ourselves known. Diane and Jack Myles imparted some history of the island and invited us for ‘happy hour’ later at their house on the island. Apparently Ports Harbour was originally more romantically named ‘Poets’ Harbour, after a literary visitor in the late 19th century inscribed some verses on a rock at the head of the harbour. Some time later, when the official chart makers came and asked the local fishermen what this place was called, they misheard the word ‘poets’ and named it ‘ports’ instead. Of course we had to go in search of this rock. A tranquil dinghy ride took us to the head of the harbour, during which several banded kingfishers, a pair of bald eagles and lone sandpipers were spotted. Dinghy was beached and we set off along the overgrown path through the forest in search of the engraved rock.

We had not bargained with the onslaught from vicious mosquitoes lurking in the woods. Clearly they had been starved of human blood for a very long time... We persevered for a while but eventually admitted defeat. Heading back out from the harbour, Follyfin could be seen, serene at the entrance and mosquito-free.

At Diane and Jack’s beautiful house - with a view to die for out over Pleasant Bay - we met their neighbours and enjoyed delicious appetisers and wine. They also had a most interesting framed poster showing all the different types of lobster pot used in Pleasant Bay. The photo below was kindly supplied by Diane a few days later...

Now dear reader, one of the most feared occurrences for a sailing boat is to get a rope accidentally wrapped around its propeller or rudder, let alone a rope that is attached to a lobster pot weighing at least half a hundredweight that is sitting on the sea floor. So one of the main duties of the watch keeper on passage is to ensure that the boat does not run over one of these lobster pots; when there are so many, watch-keeping can be very tiring and a bit of a nightmare.

After our lobster dinner on board (actually can’t complain about the pots which provide such tasty meat from the sea), we retired for a very quiet and peaceful night. The following morning, 25 August, crew feeling refreshed and ready for future lobster pot challenges, the line was slipped from the mooring. Enjoyed five hours sailing downwind with the mainsail and ‘magic zero’ gennaker. What a treat without the engine. Our destination, Mount Desert Island (MDI) can be seen in the distance.

Berthed on a float in North East Harbour on MDI in time for tea and to rendezvous with our friends: Lee and Deborah (North Star V) and Ruth and Herb (The Ancient Mariners). Dinner was had at a nearby restaurant where the scallops were excellent.

Three decades of Man: 6th, 11th and 8th

The weather was changing. It was clear that our time in Maine was perforce coming to an end a day sooner than anticipated as we had another rendezvous to make in Cape Cod with our son Warren and his family who are on holiday there. Sailing south, the preferable wind direction is north, east or west. The wind had been in the north and east for 4 days but now it was forecast to turn south and south west - certainly not ideal for our passage to Cape Cod. Biting the bullet, the next day we began our journey to Cape Cod, first turning west for 50nm to Tenants Harbour for one night and then south early on 27 August towards Cape Cod. Motor-sailing and tacking towards our destination would be unavoidable.

Jonesport, a working harbour and Mistake, an island

Though the sky was overcast and the wind was against us on the short passage to Jonesport, the sun came out in more ways than one upon arrival. Weaving our way in and out of lobster and fishing boats of all shapes and sizes, the Public Landing eventually came into view. Cruising boats are a rarity here (and we had been told to expect a frosty welcome or possibly none at all) but space is made for just one or two on one end of the town float where they can moor up for a maximum of three hours. Luckily there was just enough space for Follyfin to tie up and a kind gentleman from the motor boat already berthed there helped us with our lines. Then he promptly left as his time was up; thus only Follyfin is visible in photo below.

No sooner was Follyfin secure, and crew with shopping bags in hand than another kind gentleman was encountered: none other than Dana DeVos, Commodore of the Port and Starboard Yacht Club, who happened to be standing on the float about to embark for a sail on his own yacht. Upon enquiring for directions to the nearest grocery store, he invited us to use his truck as it was too far to walk: “...go ahead, the keys are in it...” What more generous hospitality than that could a visiting cruiser wish for?

Long story short, the offer of the truck was taken up, provisions were obtained from Mannafords supermarket about 2 miles away, friendly conversations with other locals were had and Follyfin’s lines were slipped just within the 3hr time limit.

On her way again, Follyfin motored 6nm due south through unmarked channels, in and out of little islands, her helmsmen keeping a close eye on the chart as there are many rocky ledges lurking just beneath the surface to catch the unaware, to an anchorage which had been recommended to us, off the NW tip of the unusually named Mistake Island. This small island has a lighthouse on its south end which looks out to the Gulf of Maine and the Atlantic Ocean beyond. Yet, the anchorage here is very calm and sheltered. Wonderful!

Mistake Island, looking south

That evening the crew enjoyed another fresh lobster dinner, having been given two splendid specimens by a friendly lobsterman who arrived at our anchorage in Roque Island just as we were leaving earlier the same morning. Another example of the amazing generosity of the people who inhabit this beautiful part of the world.

The night was calm though the wind direction was forecast to change during the night. And being quite a ‘cosy’ anchorage between rocky ledges which are exposed at low water, we kept an anchor alarm on just in case. In addition, another friendly lobsterman had come alongside to warn us of an uncharted ledge close to where our stern would be if/when the wind shifted. Early the following morning, the wind had indeed shifted and another, different lobsterman came to warn us of exactly the same hazard. We thanked him and made hasty preparations to weigh anchor and move out of danger before the tide dropped any lower - but not before purchasing two more lobsters from him for $5 each. Well, one has to take advantage of these things when one can! And this is not the first time we have been thankful for Follyfin’s lifting ‘swing’ keel which allows her to be taken into shallower and more confined anchorages than most other sailing vessels her size.

All this happened within 24 hours: it’s a busy life aboard Follyfin.

Sailing ‘Down East’ in Maine

‘Down East’ is the term used for the portion of Maine coastline beyond Schoodic Point to the Canadian border. In this area, lobstering and fishing are the primary industries, cruising yachts are rare and facilities for them are almost non-existent. No more smart marinas and restaurants: you are on your own out here! But the fabled uninhabited white granite and spruce islands together with reported abundant wildlife - seals, whales, bald eagles, ospreys to name a few - are a great attraction to us. Follyfin failed to make it this far in 2018, so her crew was determined to make it this year, 2019. First we had to get there...

Monday 19 August: Woke in Camden harbour to find thick fog which lasted all morning. Motored in company with 3 other OCC boats to Pulpit Harbour on Vinalhaven Island where we picked up a vacant mooring, courtesy of Bob’s local knowledge. This came in handy again as we walked a mile and a half to buy oysters at a small shack a little distance inland; $1 apiece and delicious. Pot luck supper was shared aboard Lee and Deborah’s beautiful 57 foot yacht North Star V, with Bob (see above) and Patty (Imagine) and Ruth and Herb (The Ancient Mariners). Many glasses of wine (vodka for some), delicious appetisers and a very tasty supper later, we all marvelled at the beautiful sunset - possibly the most beautiful one we have ever seen. Though I didn’t have my camera with me, Deborah did...

Sunset over the Camden hills (thanks Deb)

Shucked and emptied oyster shells

Tuesday 20 August: Dawned sunny and bright. Early start for the two hour motor to Hurricane Island, hailing a lobster boat on the way to purchase two choice lobsters for $5 apiece - that’s supper sorted. We were due to rendezvous on the island with the OCC ‘mini’ cruise for a brief tour of the ‘offline, offshore, off-grid’ Hurricane island. Formerly an Outward Bound Centre, it is now ‘The Hurricane Island Center for Science and Leadership’ whose mission is to integrate science education, applied research, and leadership development through year-round educational programmes and a seasonal, environmentally-sustainable island community. Their latest initiative is a global leadership and sustainability course in environmental stewardship which 18-30 year olds can apply for from anywhere in the world. The idea is that these young people learn about how to manage environmentally sustainable communities, then take the acquired knowledge back to their own countries to spread the word there. A wonderful opportunity for any young people interested in saving the planet by becoming leaders in the next wave of environmental conservation - and where better to learn about it than on beautiful Hurricane Island in Maine? On our OCC tour we saw and heard about the defunct granite quarry, scallop research, a self-sufficient garden, and many examples of how solar power is used. To say we were impressed is an understatement. This is the sort of place that needs to be fully embraced - oh to be young again!

After two hours on the island, Follyfin was underway again, eastbound towards Frenchboro on Long Island for our overnight stop. Five hours of motor sailing later, spotting porpoises on the way, we picked up the last available mooring in the harbour of this (according to the pilot book) ‘remote, very remote’ island with about 70 islanders living in the lobstering community. Having visited here last season (remembered vividly by the first mate, having swum in the extremely cold waters), we knew that only six moorings are available for visitors, so we were lucky to settle down quickly to enjoy our lobsters and another splendid sunset.

Wednesday 21 August: early morning start at 06:50, with clear visibility and blue sky - but chilly. Eastbound again, outside all the islands, motor sailing was the order of the morning in a variable wind. In and out of fog banks, the passage was enlivened by the sighting of several triangular fins along the way. Skipper thinks they belonged to sunfish but First Mate thinks more likely to pilot whales or orca (killer) whales. The jury is still out on this... more research required. Harbour porpoises were also spotted frequently as they swam around Follyfin. Soon after 13:00, the wind filled in to a steady force 3/4 and backed to the south. This meant we were able to deploy our colourful Magic Zero sail (photo seen at top of this blog). Being very light and very large, it harnesses a great deal of wind, thus effectively pulling the boat along faster than with our usual rig of 50% jib sail and mainsail. So we were flying along in the sun without engine at a steady 6 - 6.5 kn (maximum speed achieved 7.3 kn). Those moments are why we like sailing!

Soon our course turned north towards The Thorofare - a narrow, winding, hidden passage from Chandler Bay to Roque Island Harbour and our ultimate destination: the Great Beach. Arriving there shortly after 16:00, our anchor dropped in time for a cup of tea and time to marvel at the place in which we find ourselves. Such a tranquil, unspoiled and peaceful spot; the water was calm providing us with a very quiet night. Five other cruising boats are also anchored off the magnificent mile-long white sand beach but all but one have departed as I write this the following day (Thursday), leaving us alone. Even though it was overcast, one sensed that this is a special place. The only signs of civilisation on this sweeping arc of white sand are occasional notices above the beach stating that the island is private and not to stray beyond the beach. This really is a very unique place; long may it remain so.

Wildlife spotted included terns, seals, cormorants and one great northern diver.

Thursday 22 August: Loving this place so much we decided to stay another night. By the time we returned from our walk along the beach, all the other boats had weighed their anchors and Follyfin was alone once more. Whilst on the beach, we met Gretchen Gardner who happened to be on a week’s holiday, staying with her family on the island. She is one of 95 co-owners of the Island, all descendants of John Peabody who bought it originally a couple of centuries ago. These 95 people do not live on the island; they are effectively shareholders, ensuring that the island economy runs smoothly is self-sufficient  and supports its resident population of about 40 people with a working farm and small industry. The sea looked so inviting, the sun was shining so First Mate just had to have a dip but it was literally a dip, in and straight out. The water was so so cold.

Friday 23 August: With provisions running low, the reluctant decision was made to weigh anchor this morning but not before we had dinghied ashore again for another walk to the north end of the beach. Such a pleasure to walk on fine white sand in bare feet completely unplugged and unencumbered with bags or anything at all. Here we were, only 25nm sailing north east to the Canadian border, only 65nm sailing due east to Nova Scotia ... can hardly believe how far we have sailed in trusty Follyfin. Time to turn back west, first to the working lobster and fishing harbour of Jonesport, about 5nm away.

OCC Rally - encore une fois

Slipped the lines from Maine Yacht Center at 07:00, a little later than planned but pretty good considering the jet lag and physical effort required to recommission Follyfin for sailing. Twelve hours of motor-sailing later, with fog descending towards the end of the passage, we dropped the ‘hook’ in calm, peaceful and sheltered Long Cove next to Tenants Harbour. Having anchored here twice last season we knew there would be good holding in mud, so we slept easy on Friday night. And boy - did we need it! Despite a leisurely start the following morning, Saturday 17 August, the fog (an unavoidable occurrence on the Maine coast at this time of year) had not lifted as we ghosted up the Muscle Ridge Channel, motor-sailing and keeping a sharp lookout for the red and green channel markers in this beautiful stretch of water winding between many small islands, especially important in the restricted visibility. Luckily the fog lifted towards the end of the short passage to Camden.

Follyfin needed to have her diesel tank filled, and last year the cheapest fuel we found was in Camden, our destination for this year’s OCC Rally. So, on arrival at Camden, a beeline was made immediately to the fuel dock. And lo! Wonder of wonders: the price per gallon is now actually lower by 30 cents than it was last year. Rarely does price reduction happen for anything, let alone fuel. You can imagine we were two happy sailors later that afternoon when we picked up the mooring which has been kindly lent to us by a Camden Yacht Club member who is away at the moment, and arranged through a fellow OCC member.

Saturday night saw us meeting up with our old friends Lee and Deborah, and the Ancient Mariners Ruth and Herb, referred to in a previous post, and Moira and Dick, the organisers of the Rally. We were all entertained to a fantastic lobster dinner at the home of Pat and Bob who live here in Camden. What a treat that was - two lobsters per head!

Today, Sunday, was spent at the Yacht Club in the company of 133 other OCC members, chatting with people we have met previously and making new acquaintances. There was a talk by a fellow member recounting some of his adventures as a ship’s doctor followed by (too much) good food whilst exchanging salty dog stories with like-minded people. Returning to our boat this evening, the scene was classic Maine: beautiful boats on glassy water in a sheltered bay protect d by pone-clad islands. Lovely!

Tomorrow we plan to join a few other OCC boats for a couple of days, sailing to beauty spots in Penobscot Bay and meeting up in the evenings. Then our plan is to sail further east, further than we managed last season, weather permitting.