The C and D Canal

Backtracking a little, our east-west, early morning passage through the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal on Sunday 16 July was memorable. Follyfin and her crew had a tough time the previous day, criss-crossing 50nm up the Delaware river as we tacked north-west up from the ocean. As usual we had a head wind! But having rested peacefully at anchor overnight behind Reedy Island, just 5nm south of the eastern entrance to the canal, the 06:00 start was well rewarded.

Reedy Point Bridge, looking east 07:00 EST, Sunday 16 July 2017

This canal was first proposed back in the 17th century by Dutch mapmaker, Augustine Herrman. Benjamin Franklin approved it about 100 years later but the construction did not begin until the early 19th century. It took 2,600 men with only shovels and picks, digging by hand - can you believe it? - 5-7 years (sources differ) to build, originally 66ft wide and 10ft deep. The canal finally opened in 1829. It provides a 14-mile shortcut between the Delaware River and the Chesapeake Bay, cutting 300 miles off the maritime route between Baltimore and Philadelphia. Of course, much of the 'know-how' came from the UK where canal-building had been established for a few decades before that. It is now the most heavily used canal in the USA and the third busiest in the world. Luckily we did not encounter any of the commercial behemoths which are known to frequent this canal, thanks to (ahem) good planning: our west-east transit took place on Independence Day national holiday, and the east-west transit was early on a Sunday morning.

We reached the last bridge at the western end of the canal an hour and three quarters later. It was a beautiful day...

Chesapeake City Bridge, looking west 08:45 EST, Sunday 16 July 2017

But all these early starts had taken it's toll...

Of course there was no wind so we were motoring as we headed on out into northern Chesapeake Bay. A good opportunity to get quite close to some ospreys sitting on nests (before they got frightened and flew off) on channel markers, which seem to be their favourite places for raising their families. Herons also find them convenient resting places to dry their wings.

We reached our chosen anchorage spot, Worton Creek on the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay, by mid afternoon. Being Sunday there were many small boats anchored in this beauty spot; unbuilt up, clean, sheltered and quite shallow, this is a lovely place to spend a quiet afternoon sunbathing and swimming - even though the water is murky green, a far cry from the crystal clear waters of the Bahamas, BVI and Caribbean. However, by evening Follyfin found herself all alone for the night, with just ospreys, bald eagles and southern crested eagles (thanks for ID, Kevin) for company.

Great place for sundowners!

Monday morning was spent pottering and watching all these magnificent birds but perforce, by 11:30 reality had intervened. Badly in need of provisions, we motored on south (into wind of course!) about 10nm to Rockhall, a lovely little bayside resort much frequented by the boating fraternity around these parts. With one small grocery store and an excellent coffee shop, aptly named Java Rock, it fitted our requirements perfectly. We moved from there on Tuesday, about 2nm around the corner to find a quiet anchorage where we could spend three days beginning to decommission Follyfin before putting her to bed for 9 months in Baltimore. So now we are at anchor up Swan Creek, thankfully with a paddle, until tomorrow, Friday 21st July.