Old friends, new places and packing up

Rendez-vous with Wendy and Kevin having been safely accomplished on Tuesday 17th in Vannes, we set off down river towards Ile aux Moines for overnight stop. Despite showers and high winds we persevered and 2 hours later were berthed on a pontoon detached from the land. Hardly an ideal introduction to sailing ... but stroll ashore in sunshine the following morning made up for it. Acquiring croissants and baguette en route, embarkation followed just before midday. Once again, the skipper demonstrated how to stroke the under-water surface with the keel as we left (well, it was low tide and it was still very windy - in the wrong direction) but fortunately Follyfin sustained no serious damage. Now we were bound across the Gulf of Morbihan and then up-stream to Auray on the river of the same name

This river is the subject of George Millar's classic cruising book Oyster River. It was new to us all and rewarded us with wide views of parkland on each bank, ruined and under-renovation chateaux, oyster beds and islands between tree-covered banks. The upper reaches of the river are only navigable above half-tide for most keel boats but Follyfin's lifting keel allowed us a little more flexibility so we were able to sail right up to the bridge at Auray and drop anchor there just behind the moorings. Follyfin's 19m mast prevented her going beyond the 14m bridge! After lunch aboard, we 'hopped' into the dinghy to explore first the old port of St Goustan and then Auray itself.

The old port of St Goustan on the east bank is most picturesque, and behind the harbour front there are many timbered houses dating from the 15th century. Some have gargoyles to ward off evil spirits. This one reminds me of our dog when she's facing off an intruder, whilst still managing to keep one eye out for any stray morsels that might come her way!

And there is a wooden well-weathered statue of St Goustan himself, the patron saint of fishermen and sailors.

Crossing the old stone bridge to the west bank and then climbing up to the town of Auray proper provided an excellent view of the waterfront at St Goustan and its harbour-front eateries, where we sampled some excellent seafood in one before returning to the boat just before dark.

Returning to the boat at low water, we found her only just afloat and close to a menacing mudbank. The sunset from this position, however, was beautiful.

By Thursday the forecast had improved, wind force reduced and sea state more friendly. So weighing anchor at 09:00, before breakfast, we set off down river again to pass before it was too shallow even for Follyfin. Then out to sea with the last of the ebb and into Quiberon Bay. Smiling faces of our novice crew suggest they were suitably impressed.

Unfortunately the wind direction prevented us from reaching one of the nearby islands for the night so instead we diverted to Port Haliguen (again ... for the 3rd time this season!). We had an appointment in Crouesty on Friday morning with a certain M Berthelot, Engineer of that ilk, to sort out our gear box fault. Whilst waiting for him, we saw Three Men in a Boat, attempting to get out of the marina. They were part of an eight-strong fleet of One Design sailing dinghies that had been trailered over from the UK for a long weekend of eating, drinking and a little bit of sailing thrown in. [The classic One Design wooden boat has an interesting history]

As Monsieur Berthelot did not materialise before lunch as arranged, and not wanting to waste the beautifully sunny weather we decided to take another leisurely sail over to La Trinite. There we enjoyed an excellent dinner out at Le Moulliage, a wonderful little restaurant set a little way away from the other harbour front eateries. A fitting last-night celebration with our crew, who departed by bus the following morning back to Vannes where they had left their car.

Follyfin then turned her bow eastwards to begin the voyage back to her winter-berthing place. Anchoring in Suscinio Bay on the way, we were treated to yet another wonderful sunset.

And now it's time to fold up the sails again and tuck Follyfin up for her first winter abroad - in Arzal-Camoel marina, a fresh-water harbour situated immediately above the Arzal dam, in the Vilaine estuary. She is now out of the water and all sails and rigging have been removed.

Of course the weather has turned fine and warm again just as we head for home. Never mind, we have had a wonderful summer overall. Follyfin has travelled 1651 nautical miles in 4.75 months (with 6-week break in the period), using 207 hours of engine over that distance. She has crossed the Channel, negotiated the infamous tidal races around the western extremity of Brittany and tackled the rocky shores of western France and the Atlantic swell. We could not have wished for more. Until next year then: au revoir!

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Family afloat on Follyfin

Three Bennetts - Skipper's sister Sally, his brother Andrew and Andrew's wife Carolyn arrived on schedule in Vannes. Skipper and mate met them at the station. After light lunch on deck, Follyfin nosed her way out through the bridge at the first opportunity. One night in the Golfe de Morbihan and then we were off, anxious to utilise the perfect sailing conditions at sea and demonstrate Follyfin's powers at their best. On day 3 we headed up the river to Penerf, home of the oysters and Muscadet sampled earlier this season. All enjoyed an excellent dinner out at Le Cafe Pecheur.

All the dishes were deliciously wonderful and beautifully presented.

An added bonus was live entertainment from a colourful Breton trio in town for a special festival, who seemed to think we understood what they were singing about ... not easy with the Breton accent.

On the penultimate day of our crew's stay, the Skipper demonstrated how to run aground ... and then to float off again, as we headed into the Vilaine estuary at low tide. All was well and by late afternoon we were safely berthed in the marina at La Roche Bernard (LRB), where we enjoyed another delightful meal out. Early the following morning, the river looked particularly attractive, as a local fisherman also thought.

Having dropped our crew in Redon at the upper limit of the Vilaine river, where they had left their car 5 days earlier, we headed down river again, eager to make the passage to Belle Ile where we had arranged a rendez-vous with Fiona's brother and family. So we set off early on Monday 9th September, despite driving rain and a somewhat daunting forecast (head wind, 1.5-2 metre swell and rough sea). But a rendez-vous that day was not to be: 12 hours and 64 miles later we found ourselves exhausted and in a quite different refuge port - Port Haliguen. However, by Tuesday morning, the weather had improved considerably and we had a wonderful sail down to Belle Ile, 12 miles in just over 2 hours, making landfall at Le Palais, the 'capital' of the island.

It really is a very picturesque port and seaside town, overlooked and dominated by the Citadelle which was 'updated' by Vauban in the 17th century to resist British and Dutch attacks. It is massive and apparently did was required of it - certainly this Englishman was unable to scale the ramparts.

Le Palais itself is charming, as is the rest of the island, and especially the inner harbour - the 'Basin a Flot' - where Follyfin was berthed (not easily visible in the photo below as she is next to the shore inside the white hulled yacht rafted onto her, centre of picture).

It was great to spend some time with my brother Hugh.

Last year Follyfin entertained Flynn, the skipper's great-nephew, when berthed in Fishguard. At less than a year old, he was/is Follyfin's youngest visitor to date.

This year, whilst in Le Palais, we were privileged to entertain Follyfin's oldest visitor to date, the 90-year old mother of my sister-in-law Azar. In the photo below she is pictured between Azar and Azar's oldest daughter Nathalie - three generations!

Now, over the last few days, the weather has slowly but surely been turning towards a rather wintery feel. This post is sent from Port du Crouesty where we have come in today, both for shelter and to see about an intermittent fault with the engine - hopefully nothing too serious. On Tuesday we are expecting a new crew to join us in Vannes. Hoping the weather improves soon as they are novice sailors and with us for 5 days. Still, the Golfe de Morbihan is nice and sheltered so we should be able to get a little sailing in calmish water, and then venture out to sea as the winds die down.

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Sunshine, the Etel and Tuna

Determined to make an early start last Friday, we managed to get out of the Vilaine river at the first lock opening at 08:00 but lingered over breakfast whilst moored at Trehiguier from where the last post came. By the time we got underway again, the wind was head on to our desired route, resulting in the inevitable tacking towards our destination. Decided to make overnight stop in Crouesty marina since no convenient anchorage presented itself for the forecast wind direction overnight. Starting again at 06:25 Saturday morning, in the dark, progress towards the Etel river was uneventful apart from avoidance of numerous rocks at the south end of the Quiberon Peninsula.

However, entering the River Etel is quite an adventure, actually quite reminiscent of the entrance into Wells-next-the-Sea on the north Norfolk coast. There is a sand bar across the entrance that is constantly shifting. So any vessel entering or leaving the river has to seek the assistance of the (apparently) only lady pilot in France, who talks the helmsmen in and out of the river by VHF radio. Follyfin negotiated entry without difficulty and in time for lunch and a well-earned siesta. The sunset seen from our position in the harbour was stunning.

So were all the memorabilia associated with Etel's status as one of the foremost Tuna Fishing ports on the whole of the Brittany coast. Many photographs dating from the late 19th century to present day have been blown up and displayed on the external walls of the old fish market. All provided a fascinating glimpse of the history of this tranquil little port which seems to have changed little over the past 100 years or so. Two amusing taster photos follow: Queens of the Tuna in 1949 (first ones after WWII ended) and 1961. In 12 years not much seemed to change!

Sunday morning on a stroll to get the obligatory baguette and croissants, it was noted that the tourist information office is conveniently placed alongside public facilities and The Tuna Museum.

Unfortunately it was necessary to depart from the lovely Etel just after high tide on Sunday afternoon, otherwise we would have been 'trapped' in there until Monday afternoon. So it was decided to visit Locmaria on the south coast of Ile de Groix, only 10 miles away from Etel. Again the wind direction forced numerous tacks so instead of the estimated 2 hour run, it took us 4 hours until we were safely anchored. Not all bad though since the sun was shining and a large mackerel was hooked en route to provide us with a tasty supper.

Another early start on Monday morning meant we were treated to a wonderful sunrise over Groix.

And now we have arrived in Vannes, at the NE corner of the Golfe de Morbihan, via a quiet anchorage just east of Arradon on the north coast. Follyfin all clean and ready to meet our crew of three arriving from UK tomorrow for a 4-day cruise. Fingers crossed this magnificent spell of sunny, hot - at times a little too hot - weather continues.

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Off to sea again

Ahoy from Trehiguier near the mouth of the Vilaine river!

Having spent two days preparing Follyfin to sail again - you remember she has been out of the water for the past 6 weeks - we are now heading out to sea again. Weather is set fair, barometer high and temperature in mid-twenties, so all's well at 11 bells. Planning to go North a little way to visit Etel, which the weather forced us to miss back in June. Then back to the Morbihan to collect our first 'crew' mid-next week. Wonderful to be afloat again!

P.S. If you are reading this and have time to check whether you can see Follyfin's position on Marinetraffic.com then we would be glad of notification. Thanks in advance.

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Not so much "farewell", more "au revoir"

Well we're off home today, leaving Follyfin high and dry at Arzal.

She was lifted out of the water on Monday afternoon, and 'propped'. Here she will stay whilst we return to Yorkshire for about 6 weeks before returning for late summer sailing in September.

Since Monday, she has been undergoing essential maintenance and cleaning whilst her crew have been living aboard. The wonderful spell of weather, providing temperatures of over 30 degrees every day, has encouraged the workers to make full use of the cool of the early morning and late evening. Mad dogs etc.! Now fully in favour of late lunch and siesta ... dining on deck around 21:00. The view is not that great but a short walk takes us down to the river edge.

Now looking forward to a short 'holiday' at home; it won't be too relaxing though as we expect several visitors and have two weddings to attend (one in Scotland and the other in Germany), not to mention helping daughter and future son-in-law move their 'stuff' down from Yorkshire to their new house in London. Should be fun!

Blog postings to resume early in September ...

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Oysters and Bastille celebrations

Although hot weather and fair winds were set for several days, the need to re-victual necessitated our departure from the islands. There was still time to fit in a visit to one more new location: Penerf, otherwise known (by us) as the Crustacean Capital of Brittany. Situated about 2 miles up a river with drying mudflats on both sides, this area is ideal for the cultivation of oysters. Here it's possible to purchase a plate of six no. 3's (the tastiest and most popular size we are reliably informed), a glass of Muscadet, bread and butter for only 6€ - and all consumed whilst sitting at a makeshift table overlooking the river.

Before, and after, with Follyfin in the background.

Fortunately tourism has not caught up with this wonderful place yet: there are only two visitor's moorings and Follyfin was only the 4th British boat to visit this season; a total of 11 visited last season. Needless to say we also took advantage of the plentiful supply of other Crustacea on offer.

The locals never miss an opportunity to catch sardines from the slipway as the tide comes in,

Hollyhocks were quite splendid too.

Then it was time to turn into the Vilaine river again, since we knew that the Bastille Day celebrations would not only make all marinas very crowded and expensive but also they signal the start of the official French holiday season. Besides, the Vilaine river is so tranquil, and we don't like crowds.

Not normally that is, but Bastille Day is special and here at Rieux (where we have been before - see earlier post "Summer has arrived"), they celebrate it in style, last night in fact; two days early but Friday night ... well, all kinds of people turned up and lots of them, there were helpings of moules (mussels) frites all round, chichis (appeared to be dough extruded from machine into sausage shape, cut off in ~10cm lengths, deep fried then rolled in sugar or nutella ... popular with the kids) and a very well stocked bar. At 21:30 a five-piece band struck up playing chants de marins (sea shanties Breton style) and some energetic communal dancing ensued.

Breton dancing ( click here to watch a short clip ) is something like Scottish dancing, very bouncy but without the reels. Some of the steps are quite intricate and difficult to follow but others were simple enough for the crew of Follyfin to join in. At 23:00 prompt the place went dark and everyone turned to look across the river to the opposite bank where we were treated to one of the most magnificent firework displays I have ever seen, lasting fully 20 minutes. [Note to self: ensure presence in France for Bastille Celebrations whenever possible!]

On Monday Follyfin will be lifted out of the water at Arzal and we fly back from Nantes to Manchester on Thursday. We are looking forward to returning home for a few weeks, letting the intense heat abate and the holiday crowds disperse before sailing on south from here in September. Just hoping that summer will continue for us in Yorkshire.

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View from the beach: the French on holiday

Le Weekend en France au bord de la mer ...

Sunday morning and everyone is here. Last evening we counted over 100 boats, large and small, anchored off this beautiful beach on the SE corner of the island of Houat (pronounced like 'that' but with 'w' instead of the 'th') a few miles SE of the much larger Belle Isle. So this morning we decided to beach Follyfin, get away from them all for a few hours and do some essential maintenance requiring us to be on dry land.

Shortly after my last post, the weather deteriorated. I spoke too soon. This didn't dampen our enthusiasm for the great little town of La Roche Bernard, still on the Vilaine, where fresh moules were enjoyed for lunch before setting off on Shanks's pony to investigate winter berthing opportunities. Spares were duly collected in Arzal on Wednesday and further research on winter berthing proved fruitful: this is where we will winter Follyfin this year, sheltered behind the substantial Arzal barrage and out of the water. With a high pressure forecast for the weekend, we headed out to sea again on Thursday, south along the coast towards the attractive fishing town of Piriac-sur-mer. The entrance to the large marina stuck on the outside of the town is tricky, not accessible in all weathers nor at all tides. But we made it and were rewarded with dinner Chez Grand-Mere, a small restaurant off the beaten track stumbled upon whilst exploring the town. Now in the Loire region, the wine had to be savoured also. The sunset over the tidal entrance made up for the very public public toilet spotted on the sea-front.

Early Friday Follyfin pointed south-west towards Houat, despite overcast skies and light winds contradicting weather forecasters (so what's new?). This slow sail afforded a fruitful fishing opportunity: 3 mackerel, small, medium and large so that was supper sorted. Right on cue, the sun came out and has been shining ever since. At last I have managed to swim in the sea - better late than never!

Houat is gorgeous with an other-worldly feeling, no cars but lots of fishing boats and unusual flora. Unfortunately we didn't have it to ourselves for long ... Friday night and anyone and everyone with a boat that floats arrived to join us.

So Saturday morning we moved round to the other side of the island, hoping for some seclusion. Hadn't reckoned with the French Weekend though (mental note for next time: keep to mid-week, not in July). Sunset was good though!

Have decided to stay for another day and enjoy some more sand, sun, sea-bathing.

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