After the gale in Cherbourg on Friday night, we were relieved to get away at high tide on Saturday morning. The wind had moderated somewhat but the sea was still quite 'lively', and our exit from the harbour was not without drama. Within a few minutes of getting out from her berth, Follyfin started to emit smoke from the exhaust. Jib sail quickly hoisted, engine off and with the vessel hove to (nautical jargon for stopped in her tracks), the engineer diagnosed the problem as a weed blockage in the water intake to the engine. So after a few anxious minutes, the blockage was removed and we were on our way west, towards the Cap de la Hague.
From here onwards we are in an area of powerful tidal streams and a huge tidal range (see below). However we timed our passage just right and rode south west through the Alderney Race at great speed towards Guernsey. The currents and turbulence here are generated by the enormous volume of water that pours in from the wider part of the Channel as the sea around the Channel Islands makes its dramatic changes in tidal level. Wind just right, not too strong and mainly from the north meant that wind power alone propelled us nearly all the way. Result! In fact we made such good progress that we had to slow down so as not to arrive too early at Beaucette Marina, located right on the north-east tip of Guernsey. This allowed the skipper to fish - he even had a bite (I saw it) but that one got away.
Arrived at Beaucette with enough water over the sill to let us in with keel raised; a gorgeous sunny evening so drinks on deck. This marina is a flooded quarry, created by dynamiting a cut into the old workings. The entrance is slightly nerve-wracking, being only 8 metres wide at high tide. The tidal range this weekend, at Spring tide, is over 8 metres. The two photos below show this dramatic change.
Timing of arrival and departure is crucial. The green starboard marker seen below, dry on a rock at low tide, is positioned on the extreme right of the entrance channel and stands in the sea as one enters. Frightening!
Today, Sunday with the sun shining but still cool air from the north westerly wind, we walked along the north coast path to L'Ancresse Bay, apparently considered to be the finest beach on the island.
On the way, the skipper's scavenging tendencies came to the fore again. We also explored the two forts on this coast - Fort Doyle and Fort Le Marchant - both created originally in case of invasion by Napoleon in the early 19th century, and later used by the Germans during WWII when they occupied the Channel Islands. Fort Le Marchant had a good view over L'Ancresse Bay through gun implacements. Then back for a late lunch at The Restaurant on the cliff top at Beaucette - first lobster of the cruise. Excellent!
I leave you with a view of how English gardens should look at this time of year. Tomorrow we head back to France, to Lezardrieux on the Trieux River.
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