Exploring the Golfe de Morbihan

Leaving oyster beds and many large jelly fish behind at our otherwise delightful anchorage for Sunday night, our Company of Cruisers all met up again on Monday 17 June, in the marina at Crouesty just SE of Port Navalo lighthouse at the entrance to the Gulf. Repairs were underway on the two yachts damaged during the 'Hoedic Hell' (as I have nicknamed the incident related in the last post to this blog) so the mood was muted amongst the group.

Farewell drinks were had that evening aboard yacht Boheme, whose owners were departing for home the next day. The following day we took advantage of nearby shops to re-provision Follyfin since shops are few and far between in the Gulf. The weather continued to be cold and unwelcoming but undaunted we sailed off and entered the Gulf once again - there is a vast area to explore - arranging to rendez-vous for a picnic lunch on Wednesday. Unfortunately 'le temps' failed to cooperate, so instead the 'picnic' turned into a stroll ashore on Ile aux Moines, followed by coffee and gaufres (a type of French waffle) in a handily positioned cafe when it began to rain. From some distance, the beach off which we were moored reminded us of Southwold on the English east coast but closer in the French Connection was clear.

Thursday saw us all going our separate ways again with the next rendez-vous planned for Friday evening in the marina at Vannes, a large town situated in the NE corner of the Gulf, up a river and behind a swing bridge and tidal gate. So on Friday morning we went ashore by dinghy to the beach near where we had anchored overnight. Where the path from the small hamlet leads down to the beach, we were amused to see that not only motorised vehicles, bikes and dogs but also llamas and ostriches are forbidden to go on this beach during the summer months. The French seem to ignore such restrictions as several dogs were spotted on the beach. That attitude seems to correspond with their flagrant disobedience of anti-anchoring signs near beaches on the coast and their rather opulent taste in holiday houses, which are more like mini-chateaux! The half-hour walk inland was rewarded by the discovery of a great little village market in progress - in Bourg, SE of Arradon - so many tasty victuals were purchased.

Arriving in Vannes late Friday afternoon, we found our visit coincided with a music festival that evening, so the marina was crowded. Lucky the Cruising Association boats had reserved berths, even though we were rafted up three or four boats abreast. To mark the occasion, all 11 of our boats were 'dressed overall'. Some wags amongst you readers may wonder at this nautical terminology; it simply means running up the complete set of code flags on whatever halyards are available. Undressed overall means something entirely different of course ...

Our Fleet looked a splendid sight, especially as the sun came out right on cue. It was the first really warm and sunny evening when we had all been assembled, so a Pontoon Party with plenty of local wine seemed appropriate (and attracted a fair amount of attention from the locals who wondered what 'ze mad EEnglish' were doing this time). There were music groups of all genres and descriptions positioned all over this historic town - some extremely good like the jazz quartet comprised of 4 male pensioners we found in the old part of the town, and some extremely bad like the ugly-voiced-synthesised-backing twenty-something 'lad' who was unfortunately positioned very near to the marina and continued playing into the small hours. Cant think why he had a large audience of very young women ... or did I miss something? [No comment please!] The only dampener on this mainly very enjoyable and unexpected evening's entertainment was that when it finally closed down in the wee small hours, a couple of beer bottles were thrown at the boats berthed next to the pontoon, and they broke on the decks, scattering splinters of glass onto the neighbouring boats.

Saturday was spent exploring the ancient and historic city of Vannes.

Inevitably food attracted our attention in the form of a magnificent selection of goat cheeses and some fresh crab claws, which proved resistant to consumption - but the Skipper triumphed in the end.

The Cruise in Company officially ended with a meal for 21 at a small restaurant, Le Pont Vert, outside the town centre, which opened specially for us and where we were the only customers (max capacity 30). Unfortunately this blogger forgot the camera - something to do with the pre-dinner kir maybe? - but suffice to say it was a magnificent 3-course meal worthy of several stars, including chef's own pâté de foie gras together with other starters, choice of rouget (fish) or noisettes de porc, and then a wonderful plate of mouth-watering mini-desserts each. MAGNIFIQUE!

Sunday was a lazy day for all, until the evening that is. Some of our group had tickets to watch the world final of the under 20s rugby match - England vs Wales - at the stadium very close to the marina. Others just listened by turns to the crowd's roars of appreciation and disappointment. Later on Sunday evening there was a very sad turn of events when one of our group suffered a heart attack on board his boat after returning from the rugby match. Despite the best efforts of the French ambulance crew who arrived on the scene in under 10 minutes after the 112 call, David, aged only 69, died about 30 minutes later. He had been on holiday with his wife Sally on their boat Namaste. It was a terrible shock for her. We all were/are in a state of disbelief. How important it is to make the most of life whilst one has it.

The planned visit to a sail loft on Monday morning went ahead for some of us but the mood was sombre. It was nevertheless most interesting to see how our sails are made.

We departed from Vannes on the evening tide, needing to take stock of recent events. Our last evening in the Gulf was spent in total tranquility. Life is good.

Having gone back to Hoedic to search for the lost fender - without success - we spent Tuesday night at anchor in Suscinio bay, in sight of a splendid (proper) chateau.The next project is to explore the Vilaine River, from where this post is sent, and research winter-berthing arrangements for Follyfin.

Cruising in Company - camaraderie and drama combined

We arrived in Port Louis on Sunday afternoon as planned, after a most enjoyable sail eastwards along the coast. There we met fellow members (and their boats) of the Cruising Association with whom we were to 'potter' around this beautiful part of the South Brittany coast for the next couple of weeks. Most of them have been cruising here for years and know all the good places to go, see and eat. As the new kids on the block, we have been eager to pick up as much local knowledge as possible so this is a golden opportunity. That evening everyone was invited to a pot luck supper aboard Tudora - a luxurious 'Gentleman's Yacht', now converted to a permanent live-aboard home for its owners and kept in pristine condition. Tudora is a 51ft all wood motor yacht and has been beautifully restored to a high standard over the last 21 years. She is a 25 Ton twin screw motor yacht built in 1964. Amazingly there was enough room for 16 people to sit or stand below for supper.

Port Louis is one of 6 yacht marinas within the port of L'Orient, which is a natural harbour, now much industrialised and not dissimilar to Harwich on the east coast of England. Port Louis itself is a walled town on the east bank near the entrance, once famous as the home of the French East India Company. A brief history and some good photos can be found here. On a Monday in June, however, it was the very antithesis of a commercial centre - every shop was closed except the Boulangerie and the Pharmacie.

It had been planned originally to go into the River Etel on Monday but the forecast swell - a significant feature on this coast - was to be 2.5-3.0 metres. Since one of our number (Tudora) was a motor launch for whom that amount of swell would make for a very uncomfortable passage, it was decided instead for the 'fleet' to sail instead to Port Haliguen on the south eastern tip of the Quiberon Peninsula. On the very tip of this rocky promontory there is an amazing chateau!

Once again the weather conspired to frustrate the plan to sail to Belle Isle the following day so we stayed another day, and explored Quiberon, an overt tourist town now but the old original part still has charm. Another convivial evening was had in company aboard Tudora to share some traditional Breton cakes washed down with Breton cider - delicious! We are amazed at the breadth and depth of knowledge amongst the party - ask any nautical question and someone will have the answer!

On Wednesday 12th June the fleet moved on to La Trinite further into Quiberon Bay. Here we had our first serious encounter with megaliths, menhirs, dolmens, cromlechs and the like, for Carnac is only a short bus ride away. This is the site of an alignment over 4 km long of 4000 menhirs set up between 5000 and 2000 BC in Neolithic times. The photos below do not do justice to these amazing prehistoric monuments.

Again the weather prevented the fleet moving to Belle Isle as planned on Thursday afternoon but on Friday the majority of boats made passage south to the small island of Hoedic (The Duckling). Very small and shapeless it is the last in a string of islands and rocks stretching 13.5 miles south-east from Quiberon. Though we had to tack all the way down, it was a sunny, warmish day so it felt good to be on the water. Once there, four of our boats (Follyfin was one) joined one other French boat moored bows-to on one of four large 'tonneau' buoys, each of which is supposed to take up to 20 boats daisy-wheel fashion. It seemed a good idea at the time with the sea calm and the wind in the south west.

We went ashore and explored the tiny island. No roads, no fences, no pavements, no cars; it is another world, so peaceful and silent ...

... until the small hours of the following morning that is. Having entertained a couple of ship mates to dinner that same evening, we retired late knowing we would need to get away with the tide at around 07:30 the following day. But no sooner than we had laid our heads on the pillow than the wind got up and started shifting our boats around, more and more alarmingly. Being all tied together at bow and stern, one boat could not move without its next-door neighbour feeling it. Then, horror of horrors, the wind moved from SW round to NW, meaning that our previously sheltered position was now exposed to the incoming swell and wind. By 03:30, having not slept a wink, we got up to see what could be done to alleviate the awful motion and noise. By 04:00, everyone was up and dressed and trying to decide how to extricate ourselves from an increasingly dangerous position since by now boats were rolling and banging together and occasionally masts were crashing together. To make matters worse another French boat had joined our daisy wheel during the night, so we had 6 boats tied together, one unable to move without its neighbour moving first. Luckily we were all of the same opinion: to escape as quickly as possible to limit the damage! This we did and by 05:15, all had left and were heading north towards Crouesty and the shelter of the Golfe de Morbihan. Unfortunately two of the fleet sustained minor damage to masts and rails requiring repair, currently underway in Crouesty. Luckily Follyfin only had minor damage to the wooden toe rail and some scraped paint work, both easily repaired by us. She had a wonderfully fast sail that morning, making up for the lack of sleep the previous night.

So Saturday morning saw us entering the Golfe de Morbihan, a huge and fascinating inland sea (yes there are still tides and currents to worry about) where we have taken refuge for the weekend. It is a wonderful cruising ground, about double the size of Poole Harbour on the south coast of England, and has many islands, islets and rocky outcrops as well as an extremely intricate shoreline. Too tired to go ashore yesterday, we anchored at the north end in a quiet corner.

Today, Sunday, we moved south and east to another anchorage on the east coast of the Ile d'Arz and went ashore. It's another lovely sleepy place with charming little houses, several pumps and an ancient windmill restored as a holiday house.

Tomorrow we all meet up again in Crouesty for another pot luck supper and to plan the final few days of our Cruise in Company. Let's hope the weather improves!

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A Life in the Week of Follyfin

Our visiting crew, the Intrepid Pooles, arrived as predicted on Monday morning,

... on bikes from Plymouth with the help of Brittany Ferries. Their bikes proved very useful for a visit by the Quartermaster and Skipper to the distant supermarket to procure essential supplies. Although sunny in Roscoff, and warm in the shelter of the marina, the forecast predicted strong northerly winds. Nevertheless, we deemed that conditions were right to sail West to L'Aber-Wrac'h so to be in a position to round the Point of Brittany the following day,Tuesday. So all was prepared, ship-shape and Bristol-fashion, for departure at 14:30. "Not so fast" said the Skipper - "the traffic lights are red! No boats allowed out of the marina when a ferry is manoeuvring". And it was the self-same ferry that had borne our crew to us that very morning which delayed our departure by 45 minutes. No matter; once underway, the tide was still in our favour and once round the Ile de Batz, the wind was also favourable. Having made excellent time (maximum speed 9.2 kn) and with good visibility, the Skipper decided to short-cut to the harbour entrance down the Chenal de la Malouine. This is a narrow passage, beset with rocks on either side, requiring very precise navigation. So the command came to drop the fore-sail. But ... the best laid plans ... the jib reefing line jammed in the Furlex drum and would not turn! Cutting a long story short, a whole hour later, tempers frazzled, many expletives muttered, 2nd Mate's fore-finger punctured and dripping blood (but he did save the shackle pin from going overboard), the welcoming sight of mooring buoys in L'Aber-Wrac'h harbour hove into view. Suffice to say the Skipper and Crew were relieved to retire after a hearty supper of Chilli and rice.

Again on Tuesday morning a favourable forecast was received for rounding the Point, so refreshed and fed, the line was slipped at 13:30 and we were off.

Just after 16:30 Le Four lighthouse was passed and our course turned southerly. Wind direction NE and ENE was perfect for the whole passage until we needed to turn up into the wind to get into our chosen harbour for the night, Camaret-sur-mer, on the far side of the entrance into the Rade de Brest. So tacking was required. After eventually berthing in the over-crowded Port du Notic very close to the town - there we are in the centre of the photo below, in the last space on the outside -

and celebrating not only our safe passage through the Chenal du Four but also more importantly OUR DAUGHTER'S ENGAGEMENT (communicated to us the day before) we headed ashore for food.

By the time our celebrations were over, the response we got from most restaurants was "termine" - all bar one friendly little place where moules frites and steak frites were voraciously consumed. By next day the wind had subsided somewhat for our passage through the Raz de Sein to St. Evette and Audierne, so about 60% of the time wind was augmented by power. In some ways this was disappointing since the 'Raz' has a reputation for providing some excitement on the way through its narrow passage. But it was a lovely warm day with a calm sea, and the first day we have really felt warm at sea. You cant have everything! Anchoring in the Anse de St. Evette, the highly competent crew (aka 2nd Mate and Chief Cook and Bottle-Washer) prepared a sumptuous meal, having victualled early that morning whilst in Camaret.

The fourth and final day of sailing with Follyfwin Crew (Temporary) involved alot of hard work

which really took it out of them ... quite boring really, in hot sun with virtually no wind! They did take notice as we rounded the Pointe de Penmarc'h, however, with its serried ranks of lighthouses.

Arriving late into Port la Foret, we rushed to get ready to eat out on the final night of their stay. Luckily the restaurant very near the marina was still serving. Wonderful meal which included andouilles (French for chitterlings, otherwise known as pig intestine) together with a tasty fillet of fresh white cod-like fish. Opinion was divided over the andouilles with ladies in favour and men against. But when in France ... it was a magnificent meal for all that. On Friday it was time to say goodbye to the cycling duo, who needed to return to Roscoff to catch the ferry home.

By happy chance, the First Mate's tennis partner, Sarah, from Great Shelford TC - her former club prior to the move to Yorkshire - happened to have arrived for a holiday in Concarneau, just a short distance from where Follyfin was berthed. So a quick plan was hatched and Sarah (on the right), husband and friends came aboard for lunch. Then it was time to do the chores ready for the next week, when we join several other cruising boats to 'cruise in company' around the beautiful western shores of Brittany. We are due to meet on Sunday, so today we sailed 15 miles towards the rendez-vous and have anchored at Port Manac'h at the mouth of the Aven River, the river of Paul Gauguin who lived and worked at Pont-Aven (the head of the river) from 1888-1891. We'll be moving on to Port Louis, near L'Orient, hopefully early tomorrow all being well.

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Trebeurden and beyond

On Friday 31st May we slipped our lines mid-morning, having by chance caught the excellent Friday market in Lezardrieux. The Quartermaster was spoiled for choice: fresh artichokes and all sorts of vegetables, fish, lobsters, crabs, mussels, cheeses, lamb fresh from the farm, artisan breads galore and of course fresh Breton strawberries, perfectly shaped and tasting like those little wild ones - oh what flavour! I could go on ...

As the wind was just right we decided to push on to Trebeurden, even though this meant missing the pink granite rocks of Perros-Guirec and Ploumanac'h. Have to save those for another trip. Arriving too early to get in through the lock to the marina, instead we picked up a buoy and enjoyed the wonderful sunset.

During the night the sea became somewhat less calm than in the photo. So much so that at about midnight a loud noise was heard on the starboard quarter (nautical for back RH corner). Upon investigation, the Skipper discovered that FF had made contact with the neighbouring mooring buoy, which fortunately was unoccupied! Sleep was fitful for awhile after that but the swell eventually calmed down and the crew was able to get some rest. Not wanting to experience another night in similar conditions, and seeing a weather 'window' with enough wind (but not too much) from a good sailing direction, on Saturday midday we steered westwards again, to Roscoff. A short hop of only 18 miles which we did under sail in only 2.5 hours. The marina here is brand new but as yet unfinished so on land looks much like a building site, with facilities in Portacabins. However it is very sheltered and the pontoons feel good and stable.

A 20-minute walk into the town centre revealed the charming 'vieux port', where visiting yachts used to be accommodated. See the lighthouse on the left of the photo below, and the church steeple on the right is in close-up below. We could not help feeling it would have been preferable to be in this old port rather than in the modern marina - and alot nearer the shops and restaurants!

Today was the First Mate's birthday so a special outing for Sunday lunch was made to La Bonne Etoile - a restaurant that was recommended for such an occasion. It did not disappoint, and was full of French people and large family parties, which was an added endorsement that the correct choice had been made. Nine oysters followed by wild sea bass and finally chocolate cake and ice cream for the Skipper, and honey liqueur with tiramisu for the birthday girl. What a meal!

Tomorrow we are expecting crew to arrive on the morning ferry from Plymouth, docking here in Roscoff at 08:00. Then we will be off in the afternoon, heading West again to L'Aber-Wrac'h, which is the jumping-off point to go round the corner, the Point of Brittany, through the infamous Chenal du Four. A pleasure in store for Tuesday.

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