Saturday, 8 June 2013

A Life in the Week of Follyfin

Our visiting crew, the Intrepid Pooles, arrived as predicted on Monday morning,

... on bikes from Plymouth with the help of Brittany Ferries. Their bikes proved very useful for a visit by the Quartermaster and Skipper to the distant supermarket to procure essential supplies. Although sunny in Roscoff, and warm in the shelter of the marina, the forecast predicted strong northerly winds. Nevertheless, we deemed that conditions were right to sail West to L'Aber-Wrac'h so to be in a position to round the Point of Brittany the following day,Tuesday. So all was prepared, ship-shape and Bristol-fashion, for departure at 14:30. "Not so fast" said the Skipper - "the traffic lights are red! No boats allowed out of the marina when a ferry is manoeuvring". And it was the self-same ferry that had borne our crew to us that very morning which delayed our departure by 45 minutes. No matter; once underway, the tide was still in our favour and once round the Ile de Batz, the wind was also favourable. Having made excellent time (maximum speed 9.2 kn) and with good visibility, the Skipper decided to short-cut to the harbour entrance down the Chenal de la Malouine. This is a narrow passage, beset with rocks on either side, requiring very precise navigation. So the command came to drop the fore-sail. But ... the best laid plans ... the jib reefing line jammed in the Furlex drum and would not turn! Cutting a long story short, a whole hour later, tempers frazzled, many expletives muttered, 2nd Mate's fore-finger punctured and dripping blood (but he did save the shackle pin from going overboard), the welcoming sight of mooring buoys in L'Aber-Wrac'h harbour hove into view. Suffice to say the Skipper and Crew were relieved to retire after a hearty supper of Chilli and rice.

Again on Tuesday morning a favourable forecast was received for rounding the Point, so refreshed and fed, the line was slipped at 13:30 and we were off.

Just after 16:30 Le Four lighthouse was passed and our course turned southerly. Wind direction NE and ENE was perfect for the whole passage until we needed to turn up into the wind to get into our chosen harbour for the night, Camaret-sur-mer, on the far side of the entrance into the Rade de Brest. So tacking was required. After eventually berthing in the over-crowded Port du Notic very close to the town - there we are in the centre of the photo below, in the last space on the outside -

and celebrating not only our safe passage through the Chenal du Four but also more importantly OUR DAUGHTER'S ENGAGEMENT (communicated to us the day before) we headed ashore for food.

By the time our celebrations were over, the response we got from most restaurants was "termine" - all bar one friendly little place where moules frites and steak frites were voraciously consumed. By next day the wind had subsided somewhat for our passage through the Raz de Sein to St. Evette and Audierne, so about 60% of the time wind was augmented by power. In some ways this was disappointing since the 'Raz' has a reputation for providing some excitement on the way through its narrow passage. But it was a lovely warm day with a calm sea, and the first day we have really felt warm at sea. You cant have everything! Anchoring in the Anse de St. Evette, the highly competent crew (aka 2nd Mate and Chief Cook and Bottle-Washer) prepared a sumptuous meal, having victualled early that morning whilst in Camaret.

The fourth and final day of sailing with Follyfwin Crew (Temporary) involved alot of hard work

which really took it out of them ... quite boring really, in hot sun with virtually no wind! They did take notice as we rounded the Pointe de Penmarc'h, however, with its serried ranks of lighthouses.

Arriving late into Port la Foret, we rushed to get ready to eat out on the final night of their stay. Luckily the restaurant very near the marina was still serving. Wonderful meal which included andouilles (French for chitterlings, otherwise known as pig intestine) together with a tasty fillet of fresh white cod-like fish. Opinion was divided over the andouilles with ladies in favour and men against. But when in France ... it was a magnificent meal for all that. On Friday it was time to say goodbye to the cycling duo, who needed to return to Roscoff to catch the ferry home.

By happy chance, the First Mate's tennis partner, Sarah, from Great Shelford TC - her former club prior to the move to Yorkshire - happened to have arrived for a holiday in Concarneau, just a short distance from where Follyfin was berthed. So a quick plan was hatched and Sarah (on the right), husband and friends came aboard for lunch. Then it was time to do the chores ready for the next week, when we join several other cruising boats to 'cruise in company' around the beautiful western shores of Brittany. We are due to meet on Sunday, so today we sailed 15 miles towards the rendez-vous and have anchored at Port Manac'h at the mouth of the Aven River, the river of Paul Gauguin who lived and worked at Pont-Aven (the head of the river) from 1888-1891. We'll be moving on to Port Louis, near L'Orient, hopefully early tomorrow all being well.

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