Thursday, 2 July 2015

Island paradise, Spanish style

An early walk ashore on Isla Ons, before the tripper boats arrive, was well rewarded. As we climbed through the eucalyptus forest with its beautiful aroma


we could look back at Follyfin at anchor with only two other boats nearby. The vegetation was reminiscent of Scotland or North Yorkshire - bracken, gorse, broom, and heather in flower.



There is only a handful of small houses on the island and even fewer permanent residents as many of the houses were derelict. The lighthouse, however, was an impressive construction, powered by a large bank of solar panels. In the summer a few cafés provide refreshments for the hordes of tourists who arrive daily on the many ferries. Some people come to camp but there is no overnight accommodation. Others take advantage of the beautiful beach (favoured by nudists) off which we were anchored.




After two nights anchored here we moved a few miles to anchor off another crowded (but non-nudist) beach on the mainland of the Ria de Pontevedra, between Porto Novo


and Sanxenxo. This enabled us to sample some more of the local seafood in an unpretentious but very welcoming little pavement restaurant in Porto Novo. Pescaditos Fritos ('little fishes fried' according to the English translation on the menu) and clams in sauce - delicious!


On Monday it was time to move a few miles west, over to the Islas Cíes, jewel in the crown of the Galician Atlantic Island National Park. Even on a weekday the ferries work constantly to bring people over from the mainland to enjoy the pristine beaches, wonderful walks and general away-from-it-all feeling of the place. Boats wishing to anchor off the islands require special permission to do so, and the authorities only allow a small number on any one day. On this day only five yachts were anchored near Follyfin, seen from a vantage point above the inland lake behind the sand dunes.


Various trails have been created ashore, one of which led up to the lighthouse. 



Walkers are discouraged from wandering off the path into the nature reserve where numerous gulls, guillemots and other sea birds are nesting and raising their chicks These birds take their warden duties seriously.


From the top we were able to look down on the anchorage where we would be that night - a lovely quiet bay on the southernmost island of the group - Isla de San Martin - and one where no one is allowed to step ashore. The view to the north, over the western, Atlantic Coast shows the whole group of islands.



That evening, looking up from our anchorage just before sunset, we just caught a glimpse of the lighthouse almost enveloped in cloud.


We were fortunate to have had excellent weather for our visit to these beautiful islands. Lots of opportunities for swimming, walking and exploring. Definitely want to revisit sometime! On Tuesday 30 June we planned to go 6 miles further south to Baiona in order to re-provision and prepare everything before setting off to Portugal. This would be the final phase of our summer sailing season as we will be flying home from Lisbon for a few weeks break.


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