One week Caribbean cruise: Martinique to St. Lucia and back 8-15 February 2016

JOINING AT MARIN, MARTINIQUE

Competent crew (temporary), Penny (volunteer galley slave) and Duncan (deck hand extraordinaire & ‘sous’). Tasks before embarkation included provisioning, water tank refill, refuelling, paying dues to the marina.

Day 1 ST. ANNE’S BAY, MARTINIQUE

A gentle 3-mile jaunt just round the point to anchor off this pretty little seaside town. Still recovering from the 3000 mile voyage across the Atlantic, no need to exert ourselves too much on the first day was there? Order of the day: swim, lunch on deck, explore St Anne, dinner on board.

Day 2 RODNEY BAY, ST. LUCIA

07:30, set sail for the 20 mile easy reach south, and a cracking sail it was too, enjoyed by all. Anchored off Pigeon Island in Rodney Bay by 11:15. Pigeon Island was the main base for the British navy in the area, being in sight  (on most days) of Martinique so ideal for repealing any marauding French. Order of the day: swim, lunch, dinghy into lagoon to Customs and Immigration (see below), provision shopping, swim, sundowners on deck, supper. Honestly, the temperatures down here are high, regularly over 30 degrees C and often up to 35, so frequent swims are essential.

Note on Customs and Imigration

Visiting yachtsmen must complete the clearing-in process for every new island they visit. They also must clear out again on departure. This is done at the Customs and Immigration offices which are not always in the same place. Clearing-in in Rodney Bay had to be one of my worst experiences of red tape. Talk about bureaucracy! First fill a complicated form in quadruplicate with carbon paper not long enough to reach the bottom of the page; then fill another form for each member of the crew; then queue up to see an officious young woman in uniform (with ne’er a smile passing her lips) who checks your form, checks your passports, stamps your passport and then tells you to take the yellow form to Immigration… a fellow sitting at the next-door desk in the same room. You queue again to see him, he checks your form and your passports again and then takes money off you for an immigration fee. At least this chap was a little more friendly and was in the same building as the awful Customs woman. 

Day 3 SOUFFRIERE AND THE PITONS

During the morning, another visit to Customs office was required to complete some minor details of paperwork before we could depart… so Follyfin motored right into the lagoon, during which very short passage there was an almighty downpour - a veritable tropical rainstorm!

14:00, sailed SW out of Rodney Bay towards south-western tip of the island. Arriving 17:30, lucky to get the last available mooring between the Pitons, ‘petit’ and ‘gros’, two conical-shaped, forest-covered mountains around 2500 ft high. Being part of the Marine Park, yachts pay a Coral Conservation fee. This is reasonable whilst the constant pestering by ‘boat boys’ in dinghies which swarm around visiting boats wanting to sell you everything from baguette (so called) to taxi rides and tours is not. Despite this annoyance, it was a magical if somewhat rolly spot to moor for the night. A little late for sundowners (sunset in these parts occurs around 18:00 and its pitch dark by 19:00) but we managed to squeeze some in anyway.

DAY 4 stayed put. Changed our mooring boy to a less rolly one nearer town, north of Petit Piton. Employed Francis to take us ashore in his ‘taxi’. Soufriere was disappointing although lunch at Petit Peak was interesting… a curry ‘roti’ is basically some curry mixture in a wrap. Quite tasty washed down with local beer. Nice location, the building having previously served as the town courthouse back in 1898, with plenty of draft and looking out over the bay. Water taxi back, swim, sundowners etc....

Day 5 MARIGOT BAY

Heading north to this completely sheltered, mangrove-lined bay and famous as a hurricane hole. Legend has it that a British admiral hid his fleet in here from a pursuing French fleet by tying palm fronds in his masts to disguise them. Of course the French sailed straight past. Having anchored, order of the day: swim, lunch, dinghy ashore, provision, drink in bar (preferably one with wifi), sundowners on deck … you get the picture. Great sunset.

Day 6 RODNEY BAY

Reluctantly returned here in order to refill water tank and clear out from St. Lucia at Customs and Immigration. Not well timed as this was a Saturday and staff overtime fees are payable - 100 EC$ (£25). Will know better next time! Order of the day as usual!

Day 7 ST ANNE’S BAY, MARTINIQUE

07:15, St. Valentine's Day. Arrived 11:45 to be greeted by heavy rain storm. Ashore to clear in to Martinique again. This accomplished much more easily than at Rodney Bay, at the ‘Snack Boubou’ on a computer provided for the purpose. The French have got it right! Excellent patisserie provided tasty desserts for Valentine’s Day supper. Competent Crew got busy swabbing the deck…

Day 8 MARIN, MARTINIQUE

Reluctantly returned to the marina. A leisurely cruise completed, skipper and first mate well rested after Competent Crew (temporary) had looked after us all the time. Just what was needed after our transatlantic adventure!