Stopping Island Hopping
Two very small islands - Petit St Vincent (PSV) and Petite Martinique (PM), belonging to St Vincent and Grenada respectively - lie a very short sail south of Union, which we had just left. Reading the pilot book, they seemed worth an overnight stop mainly for PSV’s scenic qualities - an exclusive hotel and spa ensures the long sandy beaches are kept in pristine condition, and for “the best price fuel in the Grenadines” said to be on PM. The heavy tropical rain somewhat marred our stopover but we hope to call in again next year on our way north. The photo could not capture the sheer volume of water dropping out of the sky.
So then a mere 10 nm further and we had arrived at Tyrrel Bay on Carriacou which belongs to Grenada.
and it wasn't long before we met Henry who was very proud of the yellow fin tuna he had caught with his line. Unfortunately with just two of us, and no freezer, we could not buy it from him.
Whilst negotiating another unpleasant ‘clearing in’ procedure (see "One week Caribbean cruise", posted 19/3/16) - the customs and immigration officials in these islands must all have had charisma bypasses - we met another English couple and shared our grievances and experiences over an excellent pizza at the Lazy Turtle restaurant, overlooking the bay.
The following day, realising that we had completely run out of cash, and the ATM in Tyrrel being ‘temporarily out of order’, we managed to get the bikes ashore in the dinghy and then cycle the 5 miles to Hillsborough and the nearest bank. On the way we passed Paradise Beach.
and decided that Follyfin needed to see it too. So this would be her, and our, Easter Day treat. Once there and safely anchored, Skipper nobly took me across to Sandy Island in the dinghy, where the snorkelling over the reef is superb.
That's me in the mask….
Easter Monday dawned, somewhat overcast. Anchor was weighed early to sail the 40 nm or so down the east coast of Grenada and just round the corner into St. David's Harbour. A little frequented inlet, it was charming with a palm-fringed sandy beach and only 5 other boats in it - apart from the small, low-key marina at the top. The marina also ran the one and only bar and restaurant where technicians, crew and owners enjoy the hearty tasty food at excellent value.
We had run out of bread so I made an attempt at baking a loaf according to a recipe I have for ‘No knead bread’... suffice to say that most of the very wet dough was left behind on various utensils, bowls and tea towels before the ‘loaf’ finally went in the oven.The resultant product was, shall we say, crusty, very crusty, and was more like a flat bread than the loaf I was expecting. Obviously the 'no knead' was too good to be true. We managed to eat about a third of it before the rest was consigned to the deep.
Come back Jim lad, Cabin Boy, Master Baker… All is forgiven! There'll always be a bunk for you aboard Follyfin!
The south coast of Grenada is heavily indented with bays and inlets but also has protective and dangerous reefs encircling virtually all of the coastline. We wanted to explore as many of these interesting places as we could but without rushing. After all this is still a holiday isn't it? We spent one night in St. David's before moving west to Phare Bleu Bay, at the head of which is another marina, La Phare Bleu marina, so named because of the light ship that forms an integral part of the marina. Originally Swedish, this lightship was decommissioned in the late 1990s, bought at auction by the Grenadian company behind this marina, and moved to Rostok to have a complete overhaul. During the 6 months for the refit, 12 tons of steel were welded onto the outside of the hull to repair the weaker patches. The ship was then loaded onto a huge tanker which sailed to Grenada, into St George's harbour. From there it was a short passage back along the south coast to Phare Bleu bay. Quite a history!
Actually we ended up in the marina by accident since we had intended to anchor not far from it where the sailing directions said was an excellent and sheltered spot behind a small island. What they did not say was that the bottom is weed and very poor holding for our anchor. So after 3 failed attempts, we relented and went into the marina. The showers on the light ship were most welcome. What with rum punches in ‘happy hour’ and 2 for 1 pizza night in the restaurant, we were very happy indeed.
Tearing ourselves away the next day (Wednesday), we headed out again, round the next point made by Calvigny Island and into Clarkes Court Bay, anchoring just off Whisper Cove, the site of yet another small marina. A good view was obtained from a small restaurant terrace overlooking the bay and Hog Island (centre in photo below).
Risked life and limb again (see Follyfin's progress South part 1, posted 22/3/16) on a ‘bus’ trip to St George’s, the capital of Grenada, as provisions were urgently required. Compared with all the towns we have visited as we have been hopping down the Windward Island chain, St. George’s is definitely the most cosmopolitan and civilised. But more of that anon as we plan to spend 5 days there with the boat in the Grenada Yacht Club marina; a separate post will be devoted to it.
Two nights at Whisper Cove were enough. So we moved west again next door to Mt Hartman Bay, weaving our way in and out of the numerous reefs and shoals. We anchored right up in the top, at Secret Harbour where - yes you've guessed it - there is another small marina. It is so sheltered, there is almost no swell BUT there is a lot of wind! As long as the anchor holds we don't mind, as wind = power. This morning, Saturday, we walked over to the next bay to the west, and passed some amazing palatial houses with beautiful gardens. A particular speciality seems to be bougainvillea - this white one was one of many splendid cultivars in a myriad of riotous colours.
Many examples of cacti grow in the gardens and on the roadside verge, some of which are huge and very prickly, presumably giving rise to the eponymous bay: Prickly Bay.
Tomorrow, Sunday, we sail west again and around the SW tip of the island and up to St. George's, about 12 nm. It'll be sad to leave the laid-back island life but there are several jobs need doing back in civilisation, not least of which is the washing!
Where are you?
ReplyDeleteWhere are you?
ReplyDelete