Hello Antigua

This post is being composed whilst gently bobbing at anchor in Nonsuch Bay, Antigua, a reef-protected expanse of water covering several square miles. Incredible to think that as we gaze out to the east, there is only a reef between us and the Atlantic Ocean rolling unbroken from Africa. Turquoise, shallow, warm water over sand has encouraged even the Skipper to swim several times a day whilst I have been enjoying snorkelling over the nearby reefs; so many fish of all shapes, sizes and colours and such clear water. The coral is so colourful and so alive with so many different types. Yesterday we saw two sting rays, one from on board as it swam under the boat. It has been a great place to spend the weekend. The sunsets here have been fabulous, especially so last evening.

Arrived in Falmouth Harbour on Tuesday evening (17 January) after a fabulous beam reach passage up from Guadeloupe (Follyfin averaged 7.0kn - a record) and during which we caught a large mahi-mahi fish, 85cm long which has been feeding us for the last week. You'd be surprised how many ways this excellent fish can be served: ceviche, sautéed fillet, pasta Follyfin, curried and chowder to name but some.

Note - this is a fish of the same species caught on our Atlantic crossing, as a reminder to those who might have forgotten what they look like. I was busy operating the gaff on the latest catch so no pics!

We spent the first couple of days doing the tourist thing. English Harbour sits side by side with Falmouth and is only a short walk away. It is home of Nelson’s Dockyard, the foundations of which were begun in 1745. Completed in 1789, it was Britain’s main naval station in the Caribbean Lesser Antilles with Nelson himself being stationed here in 1784. Over the centuries it gradually fell into disrepair but has now been fully restored and is the only example of an 18th century Caribbean dockyard/harbour as it used to be.

It is all the better for still being fully functional, it attracts some beautiful classic yachts, and is home to the Sunsail Charter company. Falmouth Harbour is much larger, with two marinas designed for super yachts, of which there are many. This one shown below headed out from the marina past us one morning… aptly named Vertigo it is 223ft long, 39ft wide and has a draft of 5.1m. 

And it's not just their yachts that the rich and famous show off here. On our way up to Nonsuch Bay, we passed under Indian Creek Point (250ft), the whole of which is occupied by Eric Clapton’s mansion. Yes, Antigua really is a paradise for the wealthy but luckily small fry like us can also enjoy it in passing.

Wednesday afternoon saw us taking a water taxi from Nelson's Dockyard over to Galleons Beach where the trail up to Shirley Heights Lookout (490ft) begins. We opted for the long way up, taking us along the coast first and through a most exotic population of cacti, conjuring up HG Wells’ tryphids.

Shirley Heights, named after the Governor of Antigua in Nelson's time, affords a magnificent viewpoint over English and Falmouth Harbours.

It's easy to see why the potential of these bays was recognised back in the 18th century as they are very sheltered from storms and hurricanes, easily defended against the French (mainly) and immediate access to the trade winds. The much shorter way down via the Nicholson Trail (named after Desmond Nicholson who’s father Vernon not only instigated the restoration of Nelson's Dockyard when he found it in ruins in 1947 but also founded Nicholsons Charter Co., the first charter yacht company in the Caribbean) leads through forest with some interesting plants.

We departed Falmouth on Thursday afternoon, heading east and anchoring in Mamora Bay one night, then Ricketts harbour the next before arriving here… in paradise! Next stop will be Barbuda, after we have revisited Customs in English Harbour to fulfill the complicated formalities, and reprovisioned (and of course, uploaded this blog post!)