South and West

Having beaten a foggy path to the door of Lunt’s Dockside Deli, in Frenchboro, where the flavour of the lobster is famed, profound disappointment overwhelmed us to find none available: by 14:00 on Wednesday they had run out! Had to be content with a crab roll and crab chowder instead. However, the very remoteness of Long Island and the town of Frenchboro made it worth the visit, despite the lack of lobsters. Frenchboro consists of a church, a museum and a school with 3 ‘scholars’ enrolled, plus houses for the entire community of about 70 year-round inhabitants who depend on the lobster industry. A walk through woodland to Little Beach and a swim in freezing cold water were achieved before heavy rain set in.

The following morning, Thursday 9 August, it was raining and we were enveloped in fog. Radar on, fog horn at the ready, dressed in full wet weather gear, we set off through the islands bound for Little Deer Isle in East Penobscot Bay. The passage was planned to take in Eggemogin Reach, said to be a wonderful sail in either direction because of its orientation in relation to the prevailing southwesterly wind. It was neither clear nor windy for our passage northeast along this (purportedly) beautiful 10nm stretch of water, bounded on both sides by pine-clad islands. But after a huge thunderstorm passed over us, the fog began to clear and for the last couple of hours of the passage we could appreciate why so many people return to sail these waters year after year.

Follyfin’s berth for that night on the coast of Little Deer Isle was kindly provided by fellow OCC members, Linda and Phil, who allowed us to tie alongside their yacht Antara. It is kept on a permanent mooring just off shore from their home. Having been cruisers themselves, they offered the use of their laundry facilities which we gladly accepted. This also gave us the opportunity to compare notes on places visited, discuss all matters nautical and admire the superb view they have from the deck of their home.

Yesterday, Friday, dawned bright and breezy. Maybe we would get to sail the boat instead of motor! And so it came to pass: our passage took us into Penobscot Bay proper, through the islands, sailing most of the way, with only occasional engine help. Anchored overnight off the southeast coast of Seven Hundred Acre Island, the only boat in a sandy bay. Skipper decided to see what the creel would catch overnight...

This morning there were about 25 crabs in there, a mixture of the invasive green variety and the native reddy-brown one, mostly too small to eat. But four of the native ones did make it onto our plates as a small starter this evening.

We are now moored on a buoy belonging to the Camden Yacht Club, in Camden, sailing capital of Maine. Masses of boats in here from the very large to the very small. Tomorrow, Sunday 12 August, is the start of the OCC Rally which we are joining. After a talk and a lunch and general chat, there is a jazz concert in the evening in Rockport just down the coast. From Monday to Thursday we will be sailing in company with about 20 other OCC boats, exploring Penobscot Bay. This will be a highlight of our trip: apparently the two best cruising grounds in the world are (1) Bay of Islands, New Zealand and (2) Penobscot Bay, Maine. At least we have the opportunity to try one of them.