Staging up to Maine

Whilst sitting out the heavy rain and high winds in Hadley Harbour where we very comfortably tucked up inside Follyfin along with a few other boats,

it became clear that the weather was not going to improve in the next day or two. What’s more, the timing of the favourable tide for our passage through the Cape Cod Canal was approximately one hour later every day we delayed. So a plan developed: with the help of Toby, the OCC Port Officer for Buzzards Bay (who saw our Flying Fish burgee whilst in Hadley Harbour - a happy chance), we knew that we could ‘stage’ much nearer to the entrance to the Canal. By braving the wind and waves in the Bay outside and heading NE whilst hugging the eastern shore, a mere 10nm or so sailing would allow us to enter Wings Neck (aka Pokasset Harbour) and pick up a free mooring for the night. Here we would be poised for a not-too-early start (05:30 instead of 03:30) to catch the end of the flood tide through the Canal.

And so it was early on Friday morning the mooring was slipped and we were on our way into the Cape Cod Canal, our speed over the ground accelerated by 3-4kn, the maximum experienced was 9.8kn! Emerging at the north end of the Canal just over an hour later, the sun was shining with a light south-westerly wind for our passage northwards up the Massachusetts coast. Perfect conditions for our passage up to Rockport, on the tip of Cape Ann. This passage was made even more rewarding a large mackerel obligingly accepting the lure onto our hook. Fresh fish for supper again!

After a quiet night at anchor off the beach, Saturday morning saw a more civilised 8a.m. start. Again headed north, the wind was livelier but still behind us, allowing most of the passage to be made under full sail. However by 2p.m. the gusts were over 20kn and subsequently went up to 30kn (Force 7 near gale) so sail was quickly reduced by two reefs. And by the time we anchored in Wood Island Harbour, near Biddeford, the weather had changed completely: high wind, grey overcast sky with rain in the air. But at last we had reached the state of Maine, our intended cruising ground for this season. 

Just as an aside, it is remarkable how many ports and towns along this coast have been named after an English counterpart: Plymouth, Portsmouth, Weymouth, York, Portland, Yarmouth, Bath, Gloucester, Essex, Falmouth, Newport, the list goes on. Evidence perhaps of how much the early settlers missed their home towns.

Yesterday, Sunday 16 June, we pressed on north east, across the Biggelow Bight, across Casco Bay and then in towards the Midcoast of Maine, and into the mouth of the Sheepscot River, sailing downwind all the while in the rain and then the fog ... and by Jove was it cold and wet! Still, we duly arrived at the very sheltered and quaintly named working harbour of Five Islands (because of course, logically, it is surrounded by five small wooded islands and the mainland) and it was all worthwhile because Follyfin spent the night on a free mooring kindly provided by the Five Islands Yacht Club.

Awaking to a clear sky and bright sunshine, today is a very different kettle of fish weather-wise. Five Islands is a lovely spot.

So, it was time to stretch our legs and get in some more tasty morsels for the crew. Walking up the hill to the only food store within walking distance, we saw the sign:

Thoughts immediately turned to a delicious evening meal of fresh asparagus, some new potatoes, a plate of New England oysters, perhaps a lobster from one of the many lobster boats that live in this harbour, some tasty cheese to finish, all washed down with a nice glass or two of Californian white. Imagine our disappointment when turning the corner we saw that the lovely little shop is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays! Guess it will be corned beef tonight instead....

Consoling ourselves with a walk along the road parallel to the shore, we found a nice little beach with a good view of the harbour; Follyfin looked rather unusual, centre stage amongst the other local vessels.

It’s been a good restful day though, a nice change from passage-making. Tomorrow we definitely need to go in search of water (none available to visitors in Five Islands) and provisions - corned beef two nights running is not an option!