Monday 19 August: Woke in Camden harbour to find thick fog which lasted all morning. Motored in company with 3 other OCC boats to Pulpit Harbour on Vinalhaven Island where we picked up a vacant mooring, courtesy of Bob’s local knowledge. This came in handy again as we walked a mile and a half to buy oysters at a small shack a little distance inland; $1 apiece and delicious. Pot luck supper was shared aboard Lee and Deborah’s beautiful 57 foot yacht North Star V, with Bob (see above) and Patty (Imagine) and Ruth and Herb (The Ancient Mariners). Many glasses of wine (vodka for some), delicious appetisers and a very tasty supper later, we all marvelled at the beautiful sunset - possibly the most beautiful one we have ever seen. Though I didn’t have my camera with me, Deborah did...
Sunset over the Camden hills (thanks Deb)
Shucked and emptied oyster shells
Tuesday 20 August: Dawned sunny and bright. Early start for the two hour motor to Hurricane Island, hailing a lobster boat on the way to purchase two choice lobsters for $5 apiece - that’s supper sorted. We were due to rendezvous on the island with the OCC ‘mini’ cruise for a brief tour of the ‘offline, offshore, off-grid’ Hurricane island. Formerly an Outward Bound Centre, it is now ‘The Hurricane Island Center for Science and Leadership’ whose mission is to integrate science education, applied research, and leadership development through year-round educational programmes and a seasonal, environmentally-sustainable island community. Their latest initiative is a global leadership and sustainability course in environmental stewardship which 18-30 year olds can apply for from anywhere in the world. The idea is that these young people learn about how to manage environmentally sustainable communities, then take the acquired knowledge back to their own countries to spread the word there. A wonderful opportunity for any young people interested in saving the planet by becoming leaders in the next wave of environmental conservation - and where better to learn about it than on beautiful Hurricane Island in Maine? On our OCC tour we saw and heard about the defunct granite quarry, scallop research, a self-sufficient garden, and many examples of how solar power is used. To say we were impressed is an understatement. This is the sort of place that needs to be fully embraced - oh to be young again!
After two hours on the island, Follyfin was underway again, eastbound towards Frenchboro on Long Island for our overnight stop. Five hours of motor sailing later, spotting porpoises on the way, we picked up the last available mooring in the harbour of this (according to the pilot book) ‘remote, very remote’ island with about 70 islanders living in the lobstering community. Having visited here last season (remembered vividly by the first mate, having swum in the extremely cold waters), we knew that only six moorings are available for visitors, so we were lucky to settle down quickly to enjoy our lobsters and another splendid sunset.
Wednesday 21 August: early morning start at 06:50, with clear visibility and blue sky - but chilly. Eastbound again, outside all the islands, motor sailing was the order of the morning in a variable wind. In and out of fog banks, the passage was enlivened by the sighting of several triangular fins along the way. Skipper thinks they belonged to sunfish but First Mate thinks more likely to pilot whales or orca (killer) whales. The jury is still out on this... more research required. Harbour porpoises were also spotted frequently as they swam around Follyfin. Soon after 13:00, the wind filled in to a steady force 3/4 and backed to the south. This meant we were able to deploy our colourful Magic Zero sail (photo seen at top of this blog). Being very light and very large, it harnesses a great deal of wind, thus effectively pulling the boat along faster than with our usual rig of 50% jib sail and mainsail. So we were flying along in the sun without engine at a steady 6 - 6.5 kn (maximum speed achieved 7.3 kn). Those moments are why we like sailing!
Soon our course turned north towards The Thorofare - a narrow, winding, hidden passage from Chandler Bay to Roque Island Harbour and our ultimate destination: the Great Beach. Arriving there shortly after 16:00, our anchor dropped in time for a cup of tea and time to marvel at the place in which we find ourselves. Such a tranquil, unspoiled and peaceful spot; the water was calm providing us with a very quiet night. Five other cruising boats are also anchored off the magnificent mile-long white sand beach but all but one have departed as I write this the following day (Thursday), leaving us alone. Even though it was overcast, one sensed that this is a special place. The only signs of civilisation on this sweeping arc of white sand are occasional notices above the beach stating that the island is private and not to stray beyond the beach. This really is a very unique place; long may it remain so.
Wildlife spotted included terns, seals, cormorants and one great northern diver.
Thursday 22 August: Loving this place so much we decided to stay another night. By the time we returned from our walk along the beach, all the other boats had weighed their anchors and Follyfin was alone once more. Whilst on the beach, we met Gretchen Gardner who happened to be on a week’s holiday, staying with her family on the island. She is one of 95 co-owners of the Island, all descendants of John Peabody who bought it originally a couple of centuries ago. These 95 people do not live on the island; they are effectively shareholders, ensuring that the island economy runs smoothly is self-sufficient and supports its resident population of about 40 people with a working farm and small industry. The sea looked so inviting, the sun was shining so First Mate just had to have a dip but it was literally a dip, in and straight out. The water was so so cold.
Friday 23 August: With provisions running low, the reluctant decision was made to weigh anchor this morning but not before we had dinghied ashore again for another walk to the north end of the beach. Such a pleasure to walk on fine white sand in bare feet completely unplugged and unencumbered with bags or anything at all. Here we were, only 25nm sailing north east to the Canadian border, only 65nm sailing due east to Nova Scotia ... can hardly believe how far we have sailed in trusty Follyfin. Time to turn back west, first to the working lobster and fishing harbour of Jonesport, about 5nm away.
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