Wednesday 4 September 2013

Sunshine, the Etel and Tuna

Determined to make an early start last Friday, we managed to get out of the Vilaine river at the first lock opening at 08:00 but lingered over breakfast whilst moored at Trehiguier from where the last post came. By the time we got underway again, the wind was head on to our desired route, resulting in the inevitable tacking towards our destination. Decided to make overnight stop in Crouesty marina since no convenient anchorage presented itself for the forecast wind direction overnight. Starting again at 06:25 Saturday morning, in the dark, progress towards the Etel river was uneventful apart from avoidance of numerous rocks at the south end of the Quiberon Peninsula.

However, entering the River Etel is quite an adventure, actually quite reminiscent of the entrance into Wells-next-the-Sea on the north Norfolk coast. There is a sand bar across the entrance that is constantly shifting. So any vessel entering or leaving the river has to seek the assistance of the (apparently) only lady pilot in France, who talks the helmsmen in and out of the river by VHF radio. Follyfin negotiated entry without difficulty and in time for lunch and a well-earned siesta. The sunset seen from our position in the harbour was stunning.

So were all the memorabilia associated with Etel's status as one of the foremost Tuna Fishing ports on the whole of the Brittany coast. Many photographs dating from the late 19th century to present day have been blown up and displayed on the external walls of the old fish market. All provided a fascinating glimpse of the history of this tranquil little port which seems to have changed little over the past 100 years or so. Two amusing taster photos follow: Queens of the Tuna in 1949 (first ones after WWII ended) and 1961. In 12 years not much seemed to change!

Sunday morning on a stroll to get the obligatory baguette and croissants, it was noted that the tourist information office is conveniently placed alongside public facilities and The Tuna Museum.

Unfortunately it was necessary to depart from the lovely Etel just after high tide on Sunday afternoon, otherwise we would have been 'trapped' in there until Monday afternoon. So it was decided to visit Locmaria on the south coast of Ile de Groix, only 10 miles away from Etel. Again the wind direction forced numerous tacks so instead of the estimated 2 hour run, it took us 4 hours until we were safely anchored. Not all bad though since the sun was shining and a large mackerel was hooked en route to provide us with a tasty supper.

Another early start on Monday morning meant we were treated to a wonderful sunrise over Groix.

And now we have arrived in Vannes, at the NE corner of the Golfe de Morbihan, via a quiet anchorage just east of Arradon on the north coast. Follyfin all clean and ready to meet our crew of three arriving from UK tomorrow for a 4-day cruise. Fingers crossed this magnificent spell of sunny, hot - at times a little too hot - weather continues.

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