Rendez-vous with Wendy and Kevin having been safely accomplished on Tuesday 17th in Vannes, we set off down river towards Ile aux Moines for overnight stop. Despite showers and high winds we persevered and 2 hours later were berthed on a pontoon detached from the land. Hardly an ideal introduction to sailing ... but stroll ashore in sunshine the following morning made up for it. Acquiring croissants and baguette en route, embarkation followed just before midday. Once again, the skipper demonstrated how to stroke the under-water surface with the keel as we left (well, it was low tide and it was still very windy - in the wrong direction) but fortunately Follyfin sustained no serious damage. Now we were bound across the Gulf of Morbihan and then up-stream to Auray on the river of the same name
This river is the subject of George Millar's classic cruising book Oyster River. It was new to us all and rewarded us with wide views of parkland on each bank, ruined and under-renovation chateaux, oyster beds and islands between tree-covered banks. The upper reaches of the river are only navigable above half-tide for most keel boats but Follyfin's lifting keel allowed us a little more flexibility so we were able to sail right up to the bridge at Auray and drop anchor there just behind the moorings. Follyfin's 19m mast prevented her going beyond the 14m bridge! After lunch aboard, we 'hopped' into the dinghy to explore first the old port of St Goustan and then Auray itself.
The old port of St Goustan on the east bank is most picturesque, and behind the harbour front there are many timbered houses dating from the 15th century. Some have gargoyles to ward off evil spirits. This one reminds me of our dog when she's facing off an intruder, whilst still managing to keep one eye out for any stray morsels that might come her way!
And there is a wooden well-weathered statue of St Goustan himself, the patron saint of fishermen and sailors.
Crossing the old stone bridge to the west bank and then climbing up to the town of Auray proper provided an excellent view of the waterfront at St Goustan and its harbour-front eateries, where we sampled some excellent seafood in one before returning to the boat just before dark.
Returning to the boat at low water, we found her only just afloat and close to a menacing mudbank. The sunset from this position, however, was beautiful.
By Thursday the forecast had improved, wind force reduced and sea state more friendly. So weighing anchor at 09:00, before breakfast, we set off down river again to pass before it was too shallow even for Follyfin. Then out to sea with the last of the ebb and into Quiberon Bay. Smiling faces of our novice crew suggest they were suitably impressed.
Unfortunately the wind direction prevented us from reaching one of the nearby islands for the night so instead we diverted to Port Haliguen (again ... for the 3rd time this season!). We had an appointment in Crouesty on Friday morning with a certain M Berthelot, Engineer of that ilk, to sort out our gear box fault. Whilst waiting for him, we saw Three Men in a Boat, attempting to get out of the marina. They were part of an eight-strong fleet of One Design sailing dinghies that had been trailered over from the UK for a long weekend of eating, drinking and a little bit of sailing thrown in. [The classic One Design wooden boat has an interesting history]
As Monsieur Berthelot did not materialise before lunch as arranged, and not wanting to waste the beautifully sunny weather we decided to take another leisurely sail over to La Trinite. There we enjoyed an excellent dinner out at Le Moulliage, a wonderful little restaurant set a little way away from the other harbour front eateries. A fitting last-night celebration with our crew, who departed by bus the following morning back to Vannes where they had left their car.
Follyfin then turned her bow eastwards to begin the voyage back to her winter-berthing place. Anchoring in Suscinio Bay on the way, we were treated to yet another wonderful sunset.
And now it's time to fold up the sails again and tuck Follyfin up for her first winter abroad - in Arzal-Camoel marina, a fresh-water harbour situated immediately above the Arzal dam, in the Vilaine estuary. She is now out of the water and all sails and rigging have been removed.
Of course the weather has turned fine and warm again just as we head for home. Never mind, we have had a wonderful summer overall. Follyfin has travelled 1651 nautical miles in 4.75 months (with 6-week break in the period), using 207 hours of engine over that distance. She has crossed the Channel, negotiated the infamous tidal races around the western extremity of Brittany and tackled the rocky shores of western France and the Atlantic swell. We could not have wished for more. Until next year then: au revoir!
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