It's Good Friday today, 14 April 2017, and we are sitting in the beautiful, peaceful Benures Bay on the north coast of Norman Island. This, together with Peter, Salt and Cooper Islands are known as the ‘Channel Islands’ because they form the south-eastern border to the Sir Francis Drake Channel around which the majority of the British Virgin Islands are located. Names such as Treasure Point, Privateer Bay, Deadmans Bay, Money Bay, Dead Chest Cay and Pirates Bight indicate the activities for which they were popular before the advent of tourism. Indeed it is said that the well documented piracy of a huge treasure, much of which had been buried on Norman Island, provided RL Stevenson with inspiration and information for Treasure Island - ‘Fifteen Men on the Dead Man’s Chest….’ and all that.
Today this bay might well be renamed Pelican Bay.
Both yesterday evening and this morning we have witnessed the extraordinary aerobatic abilities of these birds during several feeding frenzies around our boat. The water is so clear we can see shoals of small fish coming up to the surface, swimming for their lives whilst a much bigger fish chases them from beneath. The pelicans simply sit on the surface and pick off the stragglers or patrol in the air above the surface turbulence and dive like darts to catch any silvery fish that catches their eyes. A far cry from watching the pelicans being fed in a sitting position in London Zoo! Must say the prey fish look just the right size for our supper but alas we have no bait nor a suitable net.
Last Saturday night we enjoyed the peaceful Long Bay (see previous post). Not so peaceful Sunday morning though. A great rusty hulk, the Kodiak Queen was towed and anchored in the deep water just 100 metres away from us and all and sundry came to have a look, including a noisy red helicopter. We concluded that the mysterious jumble of wire netting on the surface is a modern sculpture but hardly an enhancement to the overall view.
Moving on, the next two nights at anchor in Gorda Sound, one in Drake’s Anchorage alone behind a reef and one in the lee of Prickly Pear Island, were unremarkable and peaceful, apart from a change in the weather as a depression passed across the BVI bringing heavy rain during Sunday night. Both these anchorages are within a mile or so of Necker Island and Mosquito Island, both owned by young Mr Branson. Apparently he has formed the Green Carbon War Room with the aim of “greening” the Caribbean, island by island. Not sure if his little red helicopter, seen buzzing round the islands, is helping very much.
Cam Bay on Great Camanoe island was our next anchorage, chosen because it is off limits to charter boats and according to the pilot book is a “small, delightful anchorage” with only enough space for 4 or 5 boats. The description was accurate - crystal clear shallow water for swimming and snorkelling, with a beautiful outlook.
However it turned out to be not off limits to skippered charters, of which there were two sharing the anchorage with us. This brings me neatly on to the title of this post. You will notice that I have used the word ‘peaceful’ three times so far; two skippered catamarans, full of about 10-12 twenty- to thirty- something year old Americans each, are anything but peaceful! Not only that, since relaunching Follyfin two weeks ago, we have had a nightly chorus of cricket chirping on board. It seems that having eliminated the cockroach infestation, we now have a resident population of crickets on board Follyfin. At first we thought ‘how sweet’ and were rescuing the dear little things then liberating them to the open air but they are still with us and it has now gone beyond a joke. And then when we reached our next anchorage, Brewer’s Bay on the north coast of Tortola and dubbed ‘one of the most beautiful unspoiled bays in the Virgin Islands’, we found yet two more skippered cats already there. What with one of the ‘crew’ ululating at regular intervals and the skipper speeding past the stern of our boat towing his water skiers and creating an almighty wash, well all we could do was wish a plague on them!
The following day, yesterday, we ventured some 3.5nm west to Jost Van Dyke Island looking forward to a relatively quiet anchorage behind Green Cay, billed as the quintessential Caribbean anchorage with light turquoise water, a small sand island with a few palm trees and no services… “it doesn't get better than this!” Alas it does - because the anchorage, though beautiful, was heaving with power and sail charter boats, their dinghies with powerful outboard motors and constant noise and wash. Now I know it's the Easter holidays and that we are of mature years - young families must be allowed their fun! - but all we ask for is some respect for the environment and a little consideration for other boaters!
Needless to say, we only stayed for lunch and a quick swim before moving off. Had to motor all the way as there was no wind but a heavy downpour of rain.
Arriving at Benures Bay, this beautiful, tranquil place - found no charter boats, no noisy outboards, just pelicans, lots of fish large and small, and about 10 other boats with like-minded crews respecting the peace and quiet. Wonderful!
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