Bathing in The Baths

Well we didn't see the green flash (see previous post) after all as we began the overnight passage to Virgin Gorda; otherwise all went according to plan. As usual the wind direction did not allow us a straight shot at the Ginger Island passage. The two changes of tack extended the distance by 20 nm but with an average speed of 6.6kn and a steady force 5 ENE wind, first landfall was made by dawn and we still arrived in plenty of time to see our way in. Of course we were both exhausted but no matter, we made it!

The decision to choose Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda as our first anchorage in these islands was two-fold: to clear in with Customs and Immigration and to visit the famous ‘Baths’. The former was yet another extremely unpleasant experience (unlike in lovely Anguilla), whilst the latter was a wonderful geological revelation.

Concentrating on the positive, the following series of photos captures, I hope, part of the unique nature of this several million years old granite phenomenon. Better anyway than any words can describe. Apparently boulders like these at sea level occur only here and in the Seychelles but no doubt the well known geologists amongst you will be able to check on that.

Walking the trail through the boulders along the shoreline from The Baths south to Devil’s Bay afforded a swimming/snorkelling opportunity from a perfect little beach. The underwater granite boulders were a sight to behold but unfortunately my camera does not go underwater!

Of course The Baths is a massive tourist attraction and large parties of Americans are brought here to see them. The boats that bring them have to anchor off and the passengers have to swim ashore carrying their essential ‘devices’ etc. in waterproof bags. We chose to walk the 2.5 or so miles from Spanish Town so we could see more of the local colour.

Morning

Afternoon

The walk there was in early morning, not toooo hot, but the walk back at 12:30 was, well, I leave to your imagination - mad dogs and Englishmen…. We decided not to eat at the specialist seafood restaurant we passed,

though to be fair, this was not typical of the majority of eateries we saw. Instead chose a bakery, another colourful local establishment,

which doubled as a snackery. We were treated most kindly with huge glasses of iced water and a massive take-away meal of bbqed chicken legs (me - yum), pig’s feet (Skipper - yuck), rice, macaroni cheese and papaya salad, all for the princely sum of $8 each and which we were able to eat inside, thank goodness.

For the most part, the vegetation was of the dry land type, i.e. cacti, succulents, grasses etc. Saw one interesting cactus, reminiscent of the Turks Head cactus seen on Île Forchue near St Barts.

which I have nick-named the Turking Heads cactus. Other suggestions are welcome via the Comments facility below…. Regarding fauna, many lizards were spotted, both large and small, revelling in the heat and dryness.

Returning to Follyfin, we quickly weighed anchor and headed under power 4nm north on the same western shore of Virgin Gorda to Long Bay, which is only tenable in very settled conditions. With only one other boat sharing the anchorage, we enjoyed a magnificent sunset

but regret, again no green flash!

And now to explore the BVI.....