Gas leak repaired

Skipper, Bosun and Engineer were all up very early to investigate the source of the leak. It was soon found - a hole in the copper pipe bringing gas from the cockpit locker to the cooker in the galley.

As seen in the above photo, the pipe had been worn so thin that a hole had formed - it had been rubbing on the stainless mesh cladding around the flexible hose bringing gas from the fixed copper pipe up to the cooker. This flexible hose moves back and forth as the gimballed hob swings with the motion of the boat. And this friction must have been occurring over many many hours of sailing; indeed the ship’s log has just clocked up 18,000nm!

Of course, once the cause had been established, a remedy had to be found and spare copper tubing and compression joints are not amongst the routine spares carried in the bosun’s locker. Fortunately there is an excellent boatyard within dinghy distance from where we are anchored. So yesterday we tied up at Hodgdon’s dock and immediately after stepping ashore fell into conversation with the manager, Lyn Campbell, a formidable woman who seems to know everyone and everything about boats. At midday Hodgdon's store was already closed but Lyn offered to drive us to the wonderful hardware store, Grovers, 5 miles away in Boothbay Harbour where the necessary items were purchased. Lyn then proceeded to give us a guided tour of the whole harbour area, famous for boat building since the 19th century. We all then shared a splendid more-than-a-sandwich lunch at the Southport General Store, which incidentally boasts a huge range of fine wine in a tiny area (for deeper pockets than ours; apparently they have some very well heeled customers who patronise the store).

Back on board Follyfin by 15:30, Bosun went to work on the repair. Five hours later, gas turned on, the moment of truth...aargh! Still the smell of gas! Too dark and too tired to investigate further, a cold supper was consumed. 

This morning, Sunday 29 July, he was up early again, undoing the compression joints to check for leaks. Sure enough, a nut had not bitten one olive sufficiently (if only it had been that simple). Once properly compressed, no more gas was smelled. So we are able to make tea and cook hot meals again; quite a relief. But for a problem like this to happen, we could not have chosen a more beautiful spot. Weather has been kind today too: no fog, no wind and hot sun. I took three dips in the water, which was cold by Carribean or Bahamian standards but no colder than the North Sea or the English Channel. Actually very refreshing!

All being well, we expect to move on tomorrow, travelling further east.

Maine challenges: fog, weed and pots

Bade fond farewell to Midge on Wednesday but our intention to depart that same afternoon was thwarted - nothing new there then. We needed water but the marina well was dry. In addition we needed a pump-out but it was too rough and windy for this to be achieved at the tiny pump-out float. Both were achieved the following day - the latter not without some damage to the hull but the less said about that the better - and we were on our way after the wind had dropped slightly and the morning fog had lifted somewhat. Picked our way through a sea of lobster and crab pot floats, also trying to avoid large patches of seaweed which if sucked into the engine sea-water intake tube would block the filter and cause the engine to seize up. Similarly, catching a lobster pot around the propellor or one of our twin rudders would be disastrous. So relaxing at the helm is not an option in these waters.

Anchored for one night in quiet Harpswell Harbour only 4nm away, just one other boat for company. Yesterday, Friday 27th July, we awoke to thick fog. Happily this had cleared by the time we motored off at 09:30 in complete calm and stillness. We are aiming to push as far as we can ‘down east’ (as they call it here) in the next week so that we can then take our time returning west to Camden in order to make the start of a sailing club rally we join on 12 August. The passage to Love Cove on Southport Island, on east side of the Sheepscot River on Midcoast Maine, was largely uneventful apart from seeing four seals, a whale and of course...patches of thick fog, weed and the ubiquitous lobster pots even out in very deep water. Had to use the motor all the way but both sails helped for a couple of hours early in the afternoon.

Arrived to find a perfect little cove, just a few summer houses around the shore. The fog lifted and the sun came out right on cue. Just as First Mate was contemplating dropping in for a quick dip after tea, the unmistakeable smell of gas assaulted our nostrils... Swift action was required - all gas taps off, the bilges pumped and definitely no lighted flames anywhere near! Location of leak will be investigated by the bosun and repair undertaken. Meanwhile, Follyfin and crew find themselves in a beautiful spot - apart from the intermittent fog of course.

Friends Reunited - for real, not online!

Monday 23 July morning - found our way through dense fog and a sea of lobster pots to Dolphin Marina in Potts Harbour. The wind was south-easterly and force 4, so very favourable for us and we enjoyed a good sail. Our purpose for coming here was to meet up with our very old friends, Vic and Midge, whom we first met on a trek in the Himalayas in 1979. Midge (85) drove the 13 miles from their home in Topsham and did not hesitate to come on board Follyfin for a cup of tea, despite having two new hips and quite restricted mobility.

She then drove us to her home where we have been staying for the last two nights. Yesterday we enjoyed visiting Vic (86) who recently moved into a nursing home nearby. It was wonderful to reminisce with them both about the highs and lows (literal and psychological) of our Himalayan trek. In the evening we shared a meal with their oldest daughter Linda.

The two days went so quickly - so much to catch up on and talk about. Before we knew it, Midge had delivered us back to Dolphin Marina so that we could get on our way again. But not before we had shared some absolutely delicious lobster rolls for lunch at Erica’s Lobster Shack right next to the marina.

Kevin’s cruise Boston to Portland - one week in July

The target this week with Kevin was to make the Maine coast and explore a few islands on the way. We achieved both and provided Kevin with a different sailing ‘experience’ almost every day: no fog, no wind, motoring; fog, no wind, motoring; fog, little wind, motor-sailing; brilliant sunshine, no wind, motoring. Our itinerary included Rockport, New Hampshire, a delightful seaside town inhabited by artists and artisans, very reminiscent of St. Ives in Cornwall. We anchored off the beach and dinghied ashore to dine at The Blue Lobster on clam chowder, fresh fish and lobster. Heavy fog the following morning necessitated the diligent use of radar and AIS equipment en route to our next port of call: the Isles of Shoals, just 12 nm off the coast and so called because of the profusion of cod which used to inhabit the surrounding waters - alas long gone. Unfortunately it was impossible to admire the beauty of these small islands because of the thick fog. An early start was required on Tuesday for the longer passage up to Portland, the capital city of Maine. Bad weather and a north wind were also forecast for later in the day. For the first 6 hours we had F3 south winds and only encountered rain and fog for the final 3 hours. Luckily a mooring was awaiting us, generously lent by a fellow member of the OCC, so it was a relief to get moored and inside to dry off.

Wednesday was a rest day to reprovision and explore Portland, as well as sample more clam chowder. Excellent WiFi in the Public Library from where this post is being uploaded. WiFi is almost non-existent here and mobile signal is woefully poor, so one takes the opportunities when they arise. Thursday we ventured 10 nm out to Jewell Island, on the outer margin of Casco Bay. Again no wind but hot sun and calm sea. The anchorage is extremely attractive and consequently popular with the locals. Even midweek there were 6 sailing vessels (including Follyfin) and 3 motor launches anchored here.

A little excitement occurred just after Follyfin had dropped her anchor: a small motor launch arrived and dropped anchor nearby, only to discover it had hooked a lobster pot on the way in. Lobster pots are extremely numerous in these waters and are a permanent hazard to all vessels plying these waters, so it is not uncommon for the occasional one to be picked up on the prop or rudder of a passing vessel if the helmsman is not vigilant. Anyway, it was cut loose from that boat but the Skipper wanted to ensure any lobsters caught inside the cage did not perish, since the owner of the pot would know where it had gone. A couple of hours later, with a complicated arrangement of lines and pulleys, he managed to raise the cage out of the water.

There were two lobsters languishing in the cage but it being weighed down with a concrete block, it was much too heavy to bring up onto the boat in such a position to allow the release of the lobsters. Reluctantly Skipper let it sink back to the depths - we hope someone will alert the owner of the pot as to its whereabouts. 

Jewell Island is such a beautiful, tranquil spot, and the weather so settled, we decided to stay another day and explore the island. During WWII it was the site of two gun batteries with attendant watch towers, set up as part of the protection of Portland Harbour, it being the nearest port to warring Europeans at the time. Remnants of the huts, gun emplacements and associated paraphernalia litter the island which is otherwise completely unspoiled and uninhabited - quite delightful. And the panoramic view over the whole of Casco Bay from the tallest 8-storey tower is breathtaking; well worth the climb. All the walking and climbing, combined with the sparkling water and sunshine made a swim off the boat unavoidable - a most refreshing, not to say invigorating experience. Certainly a great deal colder than Caribbean or Bahamian waters. Siesta, sundowners and supper on deck followed in slow succession: as it should be.

Back to Portland tomorrow to drop off our crew and reprovision. Then we’ll be setting off eastwards to explore some of the more remote islands off the Maine coast.

Crew change

Our rendezvous to meet with Mick’s cousin-in-law was arranged at a yacht club in a town on the outskirts of Boston, only a few miles from Logan International airport. Follyfin duly arrived in plenty of time to take up our reserved mooring, have a light lunch ashore, do some last minute provisioning and be at the meeting point at the appointed time. But the best laid plans etc... the outboard motor for our dinghy staged an unscheduled ‘strike’. The Bosun set to work quicktime to repair it, ending up with the whole machine apart in the cockpit but still not functioning - later diagnosed as dirt in the carburettor. So of course we were late going ashore and fell back on manpower (the Skipper’s, with paddles) to propel us.

Needless to say, the 1 mile walk to the supermarket and lunch ashore went by the board but we did make a successful rendezvous with Kevin at Winthrop Yacht Club. He arrived on time from Dublin, Ireland after a good flight. We spent a delightful first evening sharing a meal aboard and a few drams as well as some family photos.

 

View from the stern

Safely bobbing at anchor in Portuguese Cove, Peddocks Island, we have a perfect view of downtown Boston at sunset. To the left of the sun, you can just see one of the many planes heading in to land at Boston’s Logan airport. Lucky we are upwind of the flight path! Looking forward to a quiet night.

Back on board

Arrived back on Tuesday 10 July evening about 9p.m. local time. Even though late, it was hot and humid - 34 deg C! Spent the last couple of days getting out all the things we put away before we left - the story of sailing! Also made two reprovisioning trips by bike. But now we are ready for the off today, Friday 13th, at about midday. We have to wait for high water, and you can see why below.

The top of that dark line on the rocky bank is the high water mark, and this photo was taken at half tide. Tidal range here is over 3 metres at Springs (now). So Follyfin has only just had enough water to float - with keel fully retracted - at low tide.

Our plan today consists of a short run out into the main Boston harbour, which is full of small islands, and drop anchor overnight at Peddocks Island. This island has a long history. Named after an English planter in the early 1600s, it is also a burial site going back to 2000 BC. We may have time to explore the disused Fort Andrews, opened in 1904 and used in three wars: Spanish-American War, WW1 and WW2. But we might also just ‘chill’ as the last few days have been quite tiring. Tomorrow we move a few miles to Winthrop, still in Boston Harbour but on the mainland and only a few miles from Logan International Airport. This is our rendezvous with Kevin, cousin-in-law to the Skipper, who is flying out from Dublin to join us as crew for the next week as we sail north towards Maine.