Kevin’s cruise Boston to Portland - one week in July

The target this week with Kevin was to make the Maine coast and explore a few islands on the way. We achieved both and provided Kevin with a different sailing ‘experience’ almost every day: no fog, no wind, motoring; fog, no wind, motoring; fog, little wind, motor-sailing; brilliant sunshine, no wind, motoring. Our itinerary included Rockport, New Hampshire, a delightful seaside town inhabited by artists and artisans, very reminiscent of St. Ives in Cornwall. We anchored off the beach and dinghied ashore to dine at The Blue Lobster on clam chowder, fresh fish and lobster. Heavy fog the following morning necessitated the diligent use of radar and AIS equipment en route to our next port of call: the Isles of Shoals, just 12 nm off the coast and so called because of the profusion of cod which used to inhabit the surrounding waters - alas long gone. Unfortunately it was impossible to admire the beauty of these small islands because of the thick fog. An early start was required on Tuesday for the longer passage up to Portland, the capital city of Maine. Bad weather and a north wind were also forecast for later in the day. For the first 6 hours we had F3 south winds and only encountered rain and fog for the final 3 hours. Luckily a mooring was awaiting us, generously lent by a fellow member of the OCC, so it was a relief to get moored and inside to dry off.

Wednesday was a rest day to reprovision and explore Portland, as well as sample more clam chowder. Excellent WiFi in the Public Library from where this post is being uploaded. WiFi is almost non-existent here and mobile signal is woefully poor, so one takes the opportunities when they arise. Thursday we ventured 10 nm out to Jewell Island, on the outer margin of Casco Bay. Again no wind but hot sun and calm sea. The anchorage is extremely attractive and consequently popular with the locals. Even midweek there were 6 sailing vessels (including Follyfin) and 3 motor launches anchored here.

A little excitement occurred just after Follyfin had dropped her anchor: a small motor launch arrived and dropped anchor nearby, only to discover it had hooked a lobster pot on the way in. Lobster pots are extremely numerous in these waters and are a permanent hazard to all vessels plying these waters, so it is not uncommon for the occasional one to be picked up on the prop or rudder of a passing vessel if the helmsman is not vigilant. Anyway, it was cut loose from that boat but the Skipper wanted to ensure any lobsters caught inside the cage did not perish, since the owner of the pot would know where it had gone. A couple of hours later, with a complicated arrangement of lines and pulleys, he managed to raise the cage out of the water.

There were two lobsters languishing in the cage but it being weighed down with a concrete block, it was much too heavy to bring up onto the boat in such a position to allow the release of the lobsters. Reluctantly Skipper let it sink back to the depths - we hope someone will alert the owner of the pot as to its whereabouts. 

Jewell Island is such a beautiful, tranquil spot, and the weather so settled, we decided to stay another day and explore the island. During WWII it was the site of two gun batteries with attendant watch towers, set up as part of the protection of Portland Harbour, it being the nearest port to warring Europeans at the time. Remnants of the huts, gun emplacements and associated paraphernalia litter the island which is otherwise completely unspoiled and uninhabited - quite delightful. And the panoramic view over the whole of Casco Bay from the tallest 8-storey tower is breathtaking; well worth the climb. All the walking and climbing, combined with the sparkling water and sunshine made a swim off the boat unavoidable - a most refreshing, not to say invigorating experience. Certainly a great deal colder than Caribbean or Bahamian waters. Siesta, sundowners and supper on deck followed in slow succession: as it should be.

Back to Portland tomorrow to drop off our crew and reprovision. Then we’ll be setting off eastwards to explore some of the more remote islands off the Maine coast.